A bite around the world - Restaurant Reviews  

A Secret Hideaway in the Woods

The Dordogne is known for its food and wine and as a result can boast a good quota of top chefs. It comes however as a complete surprise to find one such chef hidden away in a wood, running a restaurant that might perhaps have come from a fairy tale due to its unusual location and even more unusual menu.

Chef  Règis Gagnadre hails from a family that learnt early on what it meant to make the most of the natural products that you find on your own doorstep. Having little money to spare, his grandmother made sure that as a child he was aware what could be made from everyday items that surrounded him on her farm. His grandparents sold rabbits and chicken to make ends meet whilst his grandmother taught him that nettles, dandelions and pine needles amongst other things could all be put to good use in the kitchen.  Thriftiness came from being able to make something from virtually nothing as it was an essential for daily living.

His love of food brought him to  Auberge de Layotte when it was just a table d’hôte restaurant  nestling some 6 kms from Les Eyzies and it was during his time here that he felt a keen love for expanding his knowledge of food not just at this country restaurant but also by going further afield. He felt an affinity with the Auberge and its unique location hidden away in the woods accessible only by a steep dirt track.  When he left to gain more experience, he told the owners that if they ever wished to sell up he would be happy to return.  Three years later having done a stint in Paris to hone his culinary skills, he returned to the Auberge where the keys were waiting for him should he wish to make the place his own.

Règis needed no further encouragement as he much prefers the country life to the city and he couldn’t wait to put his personal stamp on the Auberge de Layotte.  Now several years later he has succeeded in creating a truly unique restaurant known not just for its location but for its natural style of cuisine.  The 400 year old stone barn has been turned into a chalet style restaurant in the woods which plays host to up to 35 people inside and during fine weather a further 30 outside under the covered terrace. The atmosphere is one of entering a family dining room. His jovial character permeates throughout the restaurant as he chats amiably in both French and English to his customers. The terracotta floors, original stone walls, beamed ceilings and country décor all help to make you feel as special as the food.  Baskets of dried flowers, an old grandfather clock face, farming implements and laden bookcases are all part of the scene.  

Long wooden tables groan with course after course of Règis’ fare from his set price menu of €27 for adults and €9 for children. You won’t go hungry with the generous portions from this five course menu which includes an aperitif (made from dandelions), wine and coffee.  I was invited to help myself from the tureen of nettle soup. Its contents tasted as good as they smelt. This was followed by cured ham and a charcuterie platter that included liver paté and black pudding. Regis makes everything himself and uses no salt preservatives at all.  In fact everything is made as naturally as possible. The confit of duck with the freshly picked girolles was a nod to the visiting tourism trade but also a vital player in the overall menu since the duck fat was to be used not just to cook the accompanying potatoes but later in the Gateaux du noix instead of butter. As to be expected in any self respecting French restaurant a tray of cheeses decorated with the flowers from his surrounding garden made for a bright interlude after the duck and the tenderest beef that was also on offer that day. I was to discover the beef had been simmering in red wine for over 6 hours, no wonder its taste was so sublime!  The nut cake was accompanied by several different confitures; including rose petal, sorrel, pine needle and white currant. The sweetness of the confiture providing a perfect foil to the nuttiness of the cake.  Coffee accompanied by tasty crystallised mint leaves and some seriously potent liqueurs were on offer – once again Règis had made these and the pear one I sampled made a great way to end a stunning and highly memorable meal.

Auberge de Layotte is open during high season for lunch and dinner and closed on Sunday evening and Mondays. During winter they open only for lunch from Thursday to Sunday and are closed in January and February.  Règis and his partner Sabine  welcome children too as they have 10 year old son Clèment and the setting of the restaurant in the woods means that children can run around outside and enjoy themselves without parents needing to be concerned.

The Tamarind

Food and Kenya are not perhaps thought of as going hand in hand and certainly not when it comes to gourmet cuisine, so I was suitably intrigued when told that one of the finest fish restaurants in Africa supposedly had its home in Mombasa. Curiosity naturally got the better of me so I went along to find out more.

The Tamarind is a household name in Mombasa, as the home of great food and also one of the most popular outdoor caterers in the area.  Being able to produce cuisine of a high standard in the considerable heat and humidity of Mombasa is no mean feat and the quality and freshness of the produce is key. With the abundance of fish available from the Indian Ocean on their doorstep and the apparent lack of fishing controls there seems little chance of there being a shortage in the supply of fish and seafood.  Its setting looking southwards towards the island of Mombasa itself provides a fabulous view of the channel of water below. Spying locals in their dug out canoes as they either head off in search of fish or simply taking a refreshing dip in the balmy waters, only adds to the scene.  A large horseshoe shaped bar is the focal point inside the restaurant, whilst outside an even larger terrace plays host to many tables offering views over the channel. Even with the overhead fans on the terrace, the temperatures are considerable and the wise know the importance of wearing light loose clothing. Rare is the person who devours a hot meal or one of their legendary seafood curries and finds themselves inappropriately attired!

The staff, with their beaming Kenyan smiles are a delight, and the welcome once through the door with its proudly displayed Chaine des Rotisseurs blazon reaffirms that one is in a restaurant that promises a treat.  The menu which comprises a chef’s 3 course special of the day or an a la carte, comprises as one would expect predominantly fish and seafood though carnivores will delight in specials such as ostrich or steak. On that note The Tamarind is under the same management as the famous Carnivore restaurants found in Johannesburg and Nairobi where diners are served portions of game and other meats on massive spears stuck into their table (but that story is for another day). Being keen to sample the chef's handiwork I chose a starter sampler plate which included a crab parcel, a mini roulade of smoked salmon, bruschetta and a mini cold seafood salad with prawns and octopus. Items were clearly fresh and my empty platter was testimony to my enjoyment. For mains I chose a sesame crusted seared tuna dish. The portion was exceptionally generous. Four large slices of superbly cooked tuna which was just seared gave way to a delicate sumptuous tasting raw centre. My host enjoyed a more unusual starter of warm oysters with a coconut and chilli sauce. The oyster intrigued me as the Kenyan variety have considerable flatter and smaller shells than those found in France, Australia or even closer by in South Africa. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to sample one which was indeed a true melange of flavours, though for me I think will always prefer them in the natural state – uncooked. He had for his main course a superb prawn curry. One either needs to be brave or a local resident to cope with the intensity of that heat in the already hot conditions of Mombasa. He falls into the latter category and confesses to visiting the Tamarind often for this particular dish which he much enjoys.

As to be expected with a restaurant of this calibre, the prices are in the upper category and the wines even more so since they are all imported but even by European standards it is not in the off the planet realm of  some of the 3 star Michelin restaurants in London. A lunch for two at the Tamarind with two courses including wine will set you back about €50 per person. It’s certainly a place to remember and could well be the best fish restaurant in Kenya but until I have had the chance to sample them all I wouldn’t dare to commit myself on that one!

For the tourist they offer a trip on the Tamarind Dhow, a stay at the luxurious Tamarind Village and for those keen for a flutter there is also the Golden Key Casino, all on site.

Tamarind – Mombasa, Kenya

www.tamarind.co.ke

Tel: +254 41 474600/1/2/10

Vincent Lucas - Chef Extraordinaire

Chefs have a way of coming and going in the industry, doubtless due to the fact that the hours are antisocial, the commitment is extreme and personal relationships frequently falter. Those that do succeed, have to find a way to combine all these things in order to survive, not just for their career but also for their sanity. In the increasingly competitive world of restaurants and chambre d’hôte, the commitment to a new venture is not just a challenge but means a serious effort in order to succeed where many others would perhaps have failed.

Having experience behind you is important and Vincent Lucas and his wife Anne are two such people. Vincent gained much of his experience and secured a considerable name for himself in his previous role as Michelin star chef at a large property near the Italian border.  He and his wife Anne, who herself has a lot of experience in the hospitality industry, decided to make the move from the Lubaye region to the Southern Dordogne as a result of a search for a property that they felt would provide them with a home, a place to establish their own business and fulfil a desire they had to be located in the heart of one of the finest food regions in France.

Three years ago they found an old village house in Sainte Sabine Born nr Beaumont which they both believed would fit the bill. Restoring and renovating it to its former glory has involved major work in every room whether it be restoring the floors and doors or replacing all the windows in order to restore them to their former glory. Anne has put her unique touch on the 4 guest rooms which are all themed. One is a mountain room decorated with skis, toboggan, mountain sticks and even has twinkling lights hidden behind the wooden walls ( a definite winner for Christmas guests!), another room is homage to Vincent’s late mother ‘Brigitte’ and is decorated in pink and white with a distinctly Parisien feel, whilst another is the Hippo & Giraffe room, providing an African feel. It’s these unique touches that have given La Gentilhommiere, a distinctly different feel.   The large garden and massive swimming pool, the latter which is located at the end of the fruit tree strewn garden was apparently one of the first to be built in the Dordogne. It’s a veritable hideaway for children, who are welcome here.  Vincent and Anne have two young children of their own, Rafael and Clara, and so are only too aware of their needs too and place to play.

Inside the house, the informal study/sitting room, with its  art deco feel and leather chairs, offers a  fine collection of cognacs  which just begs one to curl up and relax after a day’s exploring and to have a post dinner drink. The dining room with it’s distinctly Zen type feel is an area of calm and tranquillity with doors onto the terrace overlooking the considerable garden. Vincent can comfortably do about 16 covers in the dining room, with more if using the pleasant outdoor area, whilst private parties can also be catered for in another room that is used as a breakfast room and also offers doors onto the garden.

Hailing originally from Nice, Vincent’s style is distinctive and spontaneous but he enjoys the traditional and rustic style of cuisine too. His menus are whatever takes his fancy that day dependent on the fresh produce he has secured that morning.  He is a chef with verve and flair and as the name of his restaurant indicates ‘L’Etincelles ‘ is designed to create a spark in everyone’s memory.  His presentation style is eclectic making use of items such as marble tiles to display his food to the ultimate benefit. The flavours and mixtures of his food provide an assault on the taste buds as is shown with his foie gras in a pepper crust with pear and figs that accompanies the fish – the sweetness of the fish superbly complimented by the slight acidity of the tomato and the richness of the foie gras. It’s unusual and it works supremely well. His lamb on a bed of risotto with olives, chives and herbs once again brings a contrast of flavours and accompanied by local wines it’s a veritable treat.  Instead of serving cheese in the traditional way, Vincent puts his talent to work by providing an Espuma de Rocamadour aux fevettes et fruits des mendiants.  The combination of Rocamadour with broad beans ensures a mixture of textures and tastes and provides a perfect melange of flavours prior to the sweetness of the dessert which is a magic of almond and passion fruit flavours. The former is hidden in a melt in the mouth chocolate moelleux.

With Christmas around the corner Vincent Lucas has plenty of ideas including some for  children’s menus for those who will have family and friends with them at that time but perhaps most of all he will be waiting and watching to see if he has been successful in securing his Michelin star for his new establishment.

 Tel: 0553740879   www.gentilhommiere-etincelles.com