A bite around the world - Restaurant Reviews  

Vegging out in Munich

Vegetarian food has become increasingly popular across the globe in recent years. In France chefs refuse to bow to the trend with very limited vegetarian options particularly in the more regional areas where a request for a vegetarian option is most likely to be met with a look of disdain and the offer of little more than an omelette or perhaps pasta. Given that there are vegans who don’t eat eggs the options can become even more limited especially if the pasta lurking in the chef’s store cupboard, unless freshly made, is like to contain some egg content.

It was a pleasure therefore to discover that in the heart of Bavaria, in Germany, in a country not widely applauded for it cuisine, to find that vegetarian options for the foodie are very much alive and well. Munich, being the main city in Southern Germany attracts tourists from far and wide year round. In summer it beckons those who want to enjoy the nearby lakes and famous beer gardens which dot the city. In October its beer fest has such immense pulling power that the city doubles in size with its visitors and in winter its Christmas markets are legendary. Hats off then to those that have decided to recognise that there is more than sufficient demand for a vegetarian option within the city walls.

The unusually named Prinz Myshkin restaurant nestles in one of the many side streets in the proximity of Marien Platz, probably the most famous landmark in Munich.  Immediately adjacent to a typically traditional Bavarian pub serving the obligatory pork knuckle, dumplings, sauerkraut and other various German delicacies, it’s cleverly located. In summer months, tables spill out onto the pavement which makes a great people watching area on balmy summer evenings when expensive sports cars and beautiful people are two a penny. Munich is after all the home of BMW and Mercedes and add in a handful of Ferraris and Lamborghinis which always succeed in turning heads and its clear that the venue is bound to attract those in the know as well as out of towners wanting to experience a piece of the action.

The secret perhaps of Prinz Myshkin’s success is the varied and highly creative menu which incorporates soya and cheese offerings amongst others that by the time they are presented on the plate, vie alongside the presentation of some of the town’s top chefs serving more traditional fare.  Whether you want a work of art on the plate – try stuffed zucchini flowers, delicately crisped to perfection and stuffed with goat’s cheese, drizzled with a tomato and basil relish surrounded by a twirl of balsamic or would rather go for vegetable pizza – the choice is there. Add in a selection of non alcoholic cocktails and more unusual fruit offerings such as Rhubarb schorle (fresh rhubarb juice mixed with sparkling water) and it’s clear the restaurant is on to a winner.  Pricewise, the guest won’t be frightened either. The stuffed zucchini comes in at a reasonable €11. For a main course, in a major European city this is definitely not going to break the bank.  Even the Tofu stroganoff or Soya medallions at €16-50 are acceptable and exceptionally easy on the eye. The soya medallions are served with carrots, cauliflower and oyster mushroom cream sauce, plus a choice of spaetzle, rocket and white or brown Basmati rice. Plenty of choice there and no mistake.  Those with a sweet tooth are not forgotten either. Germany is known for its cakes and the Prinz Myshkin makes sure there are plenty of those which also cater for diners who prefer not to have eggs or cheese in their mix. Try their mango lime offering at €3-30 which is made up of mango puree, lime, organic yogurt and organic cream on orange-soaked organic spelt biscuit.   Its yummy stuff. Lunch time specials come in at excellent value from only €5-50 when you could sample something such as deep fried vegetables with a chilli sauce and salad.

For those who for years have been scathing of vegetarian cuisine its time that they woke up and recognised that not only is it a healthy option it has rightfully taken its place through increasingly high profile restaurants in cities around the world.

Check out www.prinzmyshkin.com

A Secret Hideaway in the Woods

The Dordogne is known for its food and wine and as a result can boast a good quota of top chefs. It comes however as a complete surprise to find one such chef hidden away in a wood, running a restaurant that might perhaps have come from a fairy tale due to its unusual location and even more unusual menu.

Chef  Règis Gagnadre hails from a family that learnt early on what it meant to make the most of the natural products that you find on your own doorstep. Having little money to spare, his grandmother made sure that as a child he was aware what could be made from everyday items that surrounded him on her farm. His grandparents sold rabbits and chicken to make ends meet whilst his grandmother taught him that nettles, dandelions and pine needles amongst other things could all be put to good use in the kitchen.  Thriftiness came from being able to make something from virtually nothing as it was an essential for daily living.

His love of food brought him to  Auberge de Layotte when it was just a table d’hôte restaurant  nestling some 6 kms from Les Eyzies and it was during his time here that he felt a keen love for expanding his knowledge of food not just at this country restaurant but also by going further afield. He felt an affinity with the Auberge and its unique location hidden away in the woods accessible only by a steep dirt track.  When he left to gain more experience, he told the owners that if they ever wished to sell up he would be happy to return.  Three years later having done a stint in Paris to hone his culinary skills, he returned to the Auberge where the keys were waiting for him should he wish to make the place his own.

Règis needed no further encouragement as he much prefers the country life to the city and he couldn’t wait to put his personal stamp on the Auberge de Layotte.  Now several years later he has succeeded in creating a truly unique restaurant known not just for its location but for its natural style of cuisine.  The 400 year old stone barn has been turned into a chalet style restaurant in the woods which plays host to up to 35 people inside and during fine weather a further 30 outside under the covered terrace. The atmosphere is one of entering a family dining room. His jovial character permeates throughout the restaurant as he chats amiably in both French and English to his customers. The terracotta floors, original stone walls, beamed ceilings and country décor all help to make you feel as special as the food.  Baskets of dried flowers, an old grandfather clock face, farming implements and laden bookcases are all part of the scene.  

Long wooden tables groan with course after course of Règis’ fare from his set price menu of €27 for adults and €9 for children. You won’t go hungry with the generous portions from this five course menu which includes an aperitif (made from dandelions), wine and coffee.  I was invited to help myself from the tureen of nettle soup. Its contents tasted as good as they smelt. This was followed by cured ham and a charcuterie platter that included liver paté and black pudding. Regis makes everything himself and uses no salt preservatives at all.  In fact everything is made as naturally as possible. The confit of duck with the freshly picked girolles was a nod to the visiting tourism trade but also a vital player in the overall menu since the duck fat was to be used not just to cook the accompanying potatoes but later in the Gateaux du noix instead of butter. As to be expected in any self respecting French restaurant a tray of cheeses decorated with the flowers from his surrounding garden made for a bright interlude after the duck and the tenderest beef that was also on offer that day. I was to discover the beef had been simmering in red wine for over 6 hours, no wonder its taste was so sublime!  The nut cake was accompanied by several different confitures; including rose petal, sorrel, pine needle and white currant. The sweetness of the confiture providing a perfect foil to the nuttiness of the cake.  Coffee accompanied by tasty crystallised mint leaves and some seriously potent liqueurs were on offer – once again Règis had made these and the pear one I sampled made a great way to end a stunning and highly memorable meal.

Auberge de Layotte is open during high season for lunch and dinner and closed on Sunday evening and Mondays. During winter they open only for lunch from Thursday to Sunday and are closed in January and February.  Règis and his partner Sabine  welcome children too as they have 10 year old son Clèment and the setting of the restaurant in the woods means that children can run around outside and enjoy themselves without parents needing to be concerned.

Vincent Lucas - Chef Extraordinaire

Chefs have a way of coming and going in the industry, doubtless due to the fact that the hours are antisocial, the commitment is extreme and personal relationships frequently falter. Those that do succeed, have to find a way to combine all these things in order to survive, not just for their career but also for their sanity. In the increasingly competitive world of restaurants and chambre d’hôte, the commitment to a new venture is not just a challenge but means a serious effort in order to succeed where many others would perhaps have failed.

Having experience behind you is important and Vincent Lucas and his wife Anne are two such people. Vincent gained much of his experience and secured a considerable name for himself in his previous role as Michelin star chef at a large property near the Italian border.  He and his wife Anne, who herself has a lot of experience in the hospitality industry, decided to make the move from the Lubaye region to the Southern Dordogne as a result of a search for a property that they felt would provide them with a home, a place to establish their own business and fulfil a desire they had to be located in the heart of one of the finest food regions in France.

Three years ago they found an old village house in Sainte Sabine Born nr Beaumont which they both believed would fit the bill. Restoring and renovating it to its former glory has involved major work in every room whether it be restoring the floors and doors or replacing all the windows in order to restore them to their former glory. Anne has put her unique touch on the 4 guest rooms which are all themed. One is a mountain room decorated with skis, toboggan, mountain sticks and even has twinkling lights hidden behind the wooden walls ( a definite winner for Christmas guests!), another room is homage to Vincent’s late mother ‘Brigitte’ and is decorated in pink and white with a distinctly Parisien feel, whilst another is the Hippo & Giraffe room, providing an African feel. It’s these unique touches that have given La Gentilhommiere, a distinctly different feel.   The large garden and massive swimming pool, the latter which is located at the end of the fruit tree strewn garden was apparently one of the first to be built in the Dordogne. It’s a veritable hideaway for children, who are welcome here.  Vincent and Anne have two young children of their own, Rafael and Clara, and so are only too aware of their needs too and place to play.

Inside the house, the informal study/sitting room, with its  art deco feel and leather chairs, offers a  fine collection of cognacs  which just begs one to curl up and relax after a day’s exploring and to have a post dinner drink. The dining room with it’s distinctly Zen type feel is an area of calm and tranquillity with doors onto the terrace overlooking the considerable garden. Vincent can comfortably do about 16 covers in the dining room, with more if using the pleasant outdoor area, whilst private parties can also be catered for in another room that is used as a breakfast room and also offers doors onto the garden.

Hailing originally from Nice, Vincent’s style is distinctive and spontaneous but he enjoys the traditional and rustic style of cuisine too. His menus are whatever takes his fancy that day dependent on the fresh produce he has secured that morning.  He is a chef with verve and flair and as the name of his restaurant indicates ‘L’Etincelles ‘ is designed to create a spark in everyone’s memory.  His presentation style is eclectic making use of items such as marble tiles to display his food to the ultimate benefit. The flavours and mixtures of his food provide an assault on the taste buds as is shown with his foie gras in a pepper crust with pear and figs that accompanies the fish – the sweetness of the fish superbly complimented by the slight acidity of the tomato and the richness of the foie gras. It’s unusual and it works supremely well. His lamb on a bed of risotto with olives, chives and herbs once again brings a contrast of flavours and accompanied by local wines it’s a veritable treat.  Instead of serving cheese in the traditional way, Vincent puts his talent to work by providing an Espuma de Rocamadour aux fevettes et fruits des mendiants.  The combination of Rocamadour with broad beans ensures a mixture of textures and tastes and provides a perfect melange of flavours prior to the sweetness of the dessert which is a magic of almond and passion fruit flavours. The former is hidden in a melt in the mouth chocolate moelleux.

With Christmas around the corner Vincent Lucas has plenty of ideas including some for  children’s menus for those who will have family and friends with them at that time but perhaps most of all he will be waiting and watching to see if he has been successful in securing his Michelin star for his new establishment.

 Tel: 0553740879   www.gentilhommiere-etincelles.com

Last updated on 2010-07-28