Destination Italy

Milano – Cultural Capital of Europe

Think Milan – think fashion – Long thought of as the fashion capital of Europe – Milano doesn’t disappoint. With arguably the finest fashion stores in the world and a Duomo that dominates the city, it’s a place with a heart, a soul and a whole lot more besides.

Whether you arrive at one of the two city airports (Malpensa is the most common) or at the Milano Centrale station is up to you, but for convenience the station in the heart of the city is hard to beat.  With an excellent public transport system on trams and metro – its easy to negotiate; particularly the metro system which is colour coded even to the extent of the metro station walls. The trams vary from the picturesque antique ones that resemble those in San Francisco to the ultra modern which look more like a version of Japan’s famous bullet train. The former are more of a challenge to negotiate since they don’t believe in placing maps on board indicating where the stops are, nor do they have a visual signage inside to help the tourist along! However if you have a map in hand and follow the streets accordingly, you can generally work out how where to get off. Cost of travel is cheap. One journey anywhere within the urban area is €2 alternatively for €3 you can jump on and off the trams and metro at will for 24 hours.

Perhaps the best way of getting around this city and ensuring that you see the maximum though is on foot. Pottering along the cobbled streets and discovering churches and architectural designs that make you stop in awe, is a great way to spend a few hours. The city is easy to get around and smaller than one would at first imagine. The main tourist sites are all in close proximity to each other…  Taking in the view of the city from the roof of the Duomo is a sure winner. For €4.50 you can walk to the top, alternatively take the lazy route by lift for €6. It is however not for those who suffer from vertigo – since the views and angles are seriously breath taking stuff. Entry inside the Duomo itself is free and after restoration the outside is positively gleaming.  Marble balustrades and reconstructed spires have ensured that the Duomo has been restored to its former glory – making it one of the most magnificent cathedrals in the world. Wander along the Galleria and notice what is arguably the most beautiful external visual in the world of any MacDonalds, strange but true – a nod from the historical to the fast food world of today.

Italians love scooters and mopeds and attractive long limbed girls are seen riding them through the streets with ease. Road manners are pretty much like Italians themselves, plenty waving of hands takes place but generally with a shrug of the shoulders and a smile in the end and a distinctly less aggressive air than their Parisian counterparts.

Italy is the home of opera and Milan the home of the famous LaScala opera house.  Here, at some time in their lives, all great opera singers have given full vent or perhaps one should say full voice to their feelings. Smiles and tears appear on the faces of all who attend here even if it is just a once in a life time visit. Be warned though, to get tickets for opera season you must book far in advance and be prepared to dig deep into your wallet.

There are enough palaces and museums to keep even the most culturally minded person happy, though its wise to check their opening hours and to note that some of the main attractions are closed on Mondays. Milan, as with any major European city is not cheap but it is not as outrageously expensive as London. In Milan, you can sip an espresso in full view of the Duomo or La Scala without breaking the bank. People are friendly but don’t expect policeman to be knowledgeable – a common complaint from visitors is that the policeman don’t even know their own city. I can vouch for that. Upon arrival at Milano’s main central station at 5pm on a Saturday I found the information desk closed and the policeman in evidence didn’t even know the main square which was one block further along from the station… Hard to believe or perhaps they just didn’t feel like helping tourists that day!  Language in Italy is Italian and unlike its neighbouring countries where the natives generally speak 2 or 3 languages, in Italy it is not so and apart from the major hotels and restaurants, English is not commonly spoken. A phrase book in the bag becomes an essential part of life!

Accommodation comes in all shapes and guises from the ultra luxurious and obscenely expensive to back packer places dotted around the city. Deals are likely to be had at the larger hotel groups during the w/e when they tend to have space provided there is no major exhibition or conference taking place at the time. Being with walking distance of metro stations and trams is a plus and saves a lot in terms of wasted hours in trying to find them if one is located further away.

The Westin is only 10 minutes walk from the Central station and offers one such excellent location. It’s well appointed spacious rooms, some with views over the Duomo, are good for business people as well as tourists, offering desks to spread out the necessary papers and plenty of connection points for modems and mobile phone chargers. Any regular traveller knows the plight at the end of the day trying to charge laptop, camera and phone all at once and then not finding sufficient power points. Large plasma screen TVs have also been installed in all rooms. Bathrooms are no less luxurious and separate dressing room areas ensure those who dress up for the opera will have ample space for the evening attire.

Milan is one of those cities that surprises in its ability to exceed a visitor’s expectations with the amount it offers. Often losing out to its better marketed neighbours of Rome and Pisa, Milan perhaps should be given a lot more credit than it currently receives.

For more info:

http://www.milanoinfotourist.com
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/worldguide/destinations/europe/italy/milan
 

Food Rules…. Who says we need any?

Tutto Food held an exhibition in Milan recently that certainly stretched the boundaries of the average foodie’s imagination.  Four massive exhibition halls were packed with meats, cheeses, new products and packaging with what one has come to expect from Italian style and flair.

Sure Italy is the home of pasta but when you see pasta shaped into everything from witch’s hats to seemingly impossible artistic creations you realise that food is as much for the eye as for digesting. One could perhaps be forgiven for gawping at massive wheels of cheese that leave one wondering how anyone could even contemplate making such a massive wheel never mind transport it to a food fair. But it’s all in a good cause. It enables members of the trade to have the opportunity to taste the cheese, chat to the cheese maker and the producer, ultimately hopes, place regular orders, though doubtless not for the same size wheel!

Just when you think that there is little more you can do with a bar code, some ingenious person creates a taste free code that is stamped onto the product itself. Ever thought you would eat your own code? The practise is already alive and well in Japan where McDonald’s has stamped the code of hamburger packaging so consumers can quickly ascertain exactly what they are eating merely by checking on their mobile phone. However now the coding system goes one stage further with the introduction of interactive chocolate. The bar code is imprinted directly onto the chocolate… If you wish you may photograph the bar code and thereby learn the history of that bar of chocolate which you are about to devour! You can find out its origin, the type of cocoa used, the nutritional properties, etc. For years experts have been saying chocolate is good for us, now you can check up before you take the final munch.

With the world becoming ever more eco friendly – food trends that are considered bio-eco-efficient in their production stages are on a winning streak. Similarly edible packaging is become increasing important to ensure zero wastage. We’ve all seen airlines efforts to minimum food wastage on their cheaper flights where hot drinks get served in paper cups and food wrappings are kept to a minimum – Conversely the Italians produce some of the most attractive and stylish packaging in

the world. One just needs to look at the containers for their famous Panettone cakes. It ranges from Da Vinci style tins to elaborately coloured cardboard cartons. No prizes for guessing which one is more eco friendly.

No food exhibition would be complete without its chefs and the Italians when they join forces are winners at making an impact. Many Italian chefs choose to work outside of their country thereby offering the world a chance to experience Italian food from the hands of an expert. In 2001, Gruppo Virtuale Cuochi Italian was formed and comprises 700 professional chefs working in 70 countries. Five of these members flew especially to Milan to share their culinary skills, highlighting Italian cuisine with the cuisine of their country of work.

Dario Congera works in Shangai at The Westin and produced tuna tartare with a sesame wafer and a reduced Chinese vinegar sauce. Another unusual combination was achieved by Andrea Tranchero of The Sadler and Ristorante L’Estasi located in Roppongi in Tokyo. His example of moulded black rice with extra virgin olive oil, slow cooked egg, asparagus and tobiko had several members of the press entranced. However, perhaps the piece de resistance came from the hand of highly skilled Giulo Verci who runs his own very successful wine bar in Sapporo, Japan. He took creation and combination to the extreme. Hokkaido salmon tortelli in a sauce of gagome-natto combu with the obligatory extra virgin olive oil plus raw sea squirt and oriental style beans.  The sea squirt certainly did have many guests squirming at the site but those brave enough to sample the exquisite blend of tastes were not left disappointed.

The Italian Chefs, it would appear, are not afraid to stretch the boundaries. They reach out and try totally different things and this perhaps is the secret of their success worldwide. There can be few cities in the world today that don’t boast Italian restaurants. When they incorporate flavours and ingredients from other countries into their cuisine the results are clearly an experience.

In Spring 2008, Milan will hold the first conference of Italian cooks worldwide under the sponsorship of Tuttofood. One can only wonder what incredible new things will result from such an event. Until then….. I ask you… have you tried a little sea squirt today?

VENICE – THE SINKING CITY 

It’s long been a debate as to whether Venice is sinking and if so by how much a year – opinions vary but after a visit to arguably the most unique and beautiful city in the world, it certainly seems as if it may be the case. According to the statistic posted by the Venice Tourism Authority, for more than 200 days of the year you will find St Mark’s square underwater. Whether it is just a few centimeters or considerably more than that depends on whether you are unlucky enough to be there when it is or has been raining.

For the first time visitor Venice is pure fascination. A wealth of history, stunning architecture and a city that just begs to be photographed. For the initiated who have learnt their way around away from the crowds, it is even more of a delight since if one is prepared to venture just a few blocks further away from San Marco or the Rialto bridge, its easy to find peace and tranquillity amidst the sunken buildings. A city on water unlike any other, each corner reveals yet another marvel. Whether it be marble columns, exquisitely carved arched ways or yet another church which will contain works of art that defy description with their magnificence.

In Venice one needs to be prepared for several things. Firstly to walk if you are to appreciate the true wonder of the city. Secondly horrendously high prices  - Try €7-50 for a beer or €100 for a gondola ride and thirdly the unbelievably large number of tourists and tour groups at any time of year.  Avoid the main months of June, July and August when Venice heaves with people and can be rather hot and sadly very smelly. When you consider that everything is delivered and taken away by barges, you begin to realise the amount of garbage that needs to be removed daily just to cope with the increasing number of visitors. However there are some things that are worth every cent and one of them has to be your own personal water taxi which whisks you from the new modern and ultra efficient Marco Polo airport directly to the heart of Venice. For the first time visitor it’s a must whether in the day time or by night and for €90 its worth worth every penny. The good news is that the water taxis have a set charge and you only pay extra for the additional baggage involved so whether there are two or four of you on board it’s the flat rate of €90. The journey takes a little over half an hour and is magical. Principally because of the ease of the transfer from the airport to the city.  If you prefer you can take the train directly to Venice but it offers none of the magic of the water taxi. The walk from the terminal building to the water’s edge is 90% under cover and is less than 5 minutes. For those that wish there is a transfer from the terminal building to the water taxi departure point.

Whilst the Basilica in St Mark’s Square is without doubt the most famous place to visit, it starts to lose its appeal rapidly unless you are prepared to stand in a queue for several hours and then be herded with hundreds of other people. Unless you are there in winter and out of season when the queues are considerably less rather leave that for your second or third visit (because you WILL want to return!)

Where to stay depends on your budget but a hotel on the water whether on the bustling lagoon front of Riva degli Schiavoni or on one of the canals certainly adds to the charm and the price. There is little to beat opening your windows onto the lagoon and soaking in the stunning view on your doorstep. The lagoon is rarely quiet except in the wee hours and cruise ships come by sometimes at a rate of two a day in season but this grand old city takes it all in her pride. Some hotels over roof top terraces with views over San Marco square  and the lagoon – others vie for position.

Things to do:

Sit in the evening in the floodlit St Mark’s Square simply admiring the surrounding buildings and maybe sipping on a cocktail with a gentle jazz trio in front of you. It is a time to savour and remember but don’t be surprised when you find a surcharge added on to your bill for the privilege of having live music. It’s conveniently not mentioned on the cocktail menu!

Enjoy a casual lunch in one of the many piazzas remembering that the further you go away from the main tourist area, the better the service and generally the lower the prices.

Indulge and buy yourself something made from leather. Gloves, handbags, jackets, shoes are all there to beckon and prices are good especially if you do your homework and check out several shops or stalls before making your purchase. Beware of the street vendors with the illegal fake bags and belts. Sadly there are many and surprisingly the police seem to make little effort to stop them.

Ensure you have lots of spare space on your camera read to record the many pictures you are bound to take. It will exceed your expectations!

Jump on a ferry to one the nearby islands. Murano is home to the glassmakers and full of crowds buying their bit to take home. Rather go to Burano ( just over an hour’s ride) It is far more pleasant, less spoilt and will only cost you about €5 to get there. Famous for it’s brightly painted buildings and a couple of wonderfully good and reasonably priced restaurants makes sure of a day out to remember without breaking the bank.  Superb al dente seafood linguini and a glass of wine will set you back less than €15.

Go to a musical evening for around €40. The Musica a Palazzo offer highlights from some of the most famous Italian Operas in the rooms of a private palace.

If money is no object take a Gondola ride at sunset.

Sip on a Bellini – Venice’s famous cocktail which is a mixture of peach juice and prosecco (sparkling white wine) or if you have a fridge in your room buy a bottle and save on the bills!!                                                

For more information contact: www.turismovenezia.it/eng