Destination France

Just the smell of freshly baked bread is enough to make the most hardened foodies melt at the seams but it is here in France where eating bread is a daily ritual that bread really comes into its own.

Tradition states that anyone who buys a baguette (the most common form of bread bought in France) should break off a bit within a short distance outside the Boulanger and sample it. Little problem with that here – far more likely is the problem of getting the entire baguette home before it is all devoured!

The French and their bread making is strictly controlled and theoretically no preservatives are meant to be present in the bread giving the bakers a wonderful excuse to bake twice a day and for the French to pop out and buy their bread twice daily too – The boulangeries here are therefore most commonly open from early morning till around lunch time – That’s the French lunchtime of midday and then they reopen again after the second baking at around 4 in the afternoon and stay open till about 7 – this means of course that you have freshly baked bread on the table at the midday meal as well as the evening one.

The length and weight of a traditional baguette can vary but the price doesn’t since it is government controlled. A loaf of traditional baguette will cost under one euro but its length may vary from 60cm to a metre in length… Its something intrinsically French to watch people come out of the boulangerie door with the traditional length of bread. In the rural areas the baguettes can be seen sticking out of wicker baskets on the front of bicycles or in backpacks worn by those riding a scooter. It’s all part of the traditional French scene.

Rumour has it that the baguette is said to descend from an Austrian type of bread hailing from Vienna although no self respecting French man would ever admit this. The bakers here in France are fiercely proud of their artisan skills and its rare to find a boulangerie and patisserie combined since the skills are so different. Everyone knows that bakers get up early in the morning to bake the bread but in 1920 a law was passed making it illegal for them to start baking before 4am. As a result the length of a baguette has decreased over the years. Back in the reign of Louis XIV and the 1800s it wasn’t uncommon to find a baguette type loaf that might be a couple of metres long – Imagine trying to carry that home with you today. Great if you have a large family but a tad inconvenient on public transport!

Like everywhere else in the world traditional tastes have changed and even the French are starting to veer away from their traditional baguette in favour of pain au cereals and rye based breads but something that remains a firm favourite is the wood oven baked bread and bakers throughout France proudly display a sign when the bread is baked in wood fired stone or brick oven. The crispy texture has a taste all of its own and is vastly different to the bulk baked baguettes found in the supermarkets. In France too, in all restaurants it is law that bread and tap water be provided with a meal at no extra cost. The type and freshness of bread may vary enormously but one thing is for sure, as long as there are French people on the planet there will always be bread!

Limoges and its cathedral located close to the river and surrounded by botanical gardens make it a great place to visit if you happen to be exploring the city of porcelain. Located in the centre of France it makes a

convenient stopping of point if you are travelling north or south through France at any stage.

In August – all of France goes on holiday and the roads and service stations en route start to heave with traffic so a welcome break along the way is good for sanity if nothing else! For 6 weeks every year France goes into silly season from mid July till end august when festivals of every kind take place. From poetry readings to the art of mime – there is something for everyone. Music festivals in particular abound and mediaeval cities start to vibrate with the strains of jazz, rock or classical –

On a balmy summer evening there is little better than wandering through the cobbled streets of the medieval cities and checking out what might be available in terms of music. Best of all – most of this is free. Some of the more tourist focused cities may host open air operatic events or choral performances for around 15 euro a head – not outrageously expensive and with a bottle of French wine and a baguette or two it’s an outing that doesn’t need to break the bank of the money strapped tourist.

Having dropped off a visitor at the wonderfully small and efficient Limoges airport I found myself driving just a short distance to the city itself to explore the old city and wander through the cathedral which I had never visited. A huge tall imposing Gothic structure it boasts no less than 3 organs, one of which is massive and particularly fine. For the past 3 years they have hosted weekly concerts in the cathedral during the 6 weeks of high summer with free entrance. I could hardly believe my luck to listen to a top Parisian organist perform for an hour. The cathedral was well attended for the event and being held at 5 in the afternoon ensured that visitors pouring out of the doors afterwards could wander to one of the many street cafes in the vicinity that are open . Whilst the performance in the cathedral is free they do ask for a donation at the door of however much you feel you wish to give. It’s a nice way of handling a difficult scenario and young and old alike are ensured of enjoying an hour’s worth of outstanding music performance. The cathedral itself whilst not particularly ornate does have some fine stained glass windows and many individual chapels off the central nave. Over the years the cathedral has been extensively restored and explanatory boards are placed at regular intervals around the building to enlighten visitors to its history. On Sundays and public holidays parking outside the cathedral is plentiful and free so it’s an ideal day to go.

Limoges can certainly not claim to be a particularly beautiful city but it does have certain attractions for the visitor aside from the cathedral. The porcelain and enamel museum and the shortly to be reopened Beaux Arts museum which is directly next to the Cathedral offer the visitor a good insight into the culture and history of the city.

Accommodation in the city is available for the budget traveller in the reasonably priced Mercure and Kyriad hotels whilst those who are concerned about coping with the French language can do a lot worse than base themselves at the Château de la Cazine which is about 45 km north east of Limoges in easy striking distance of all the main highways and is English managed. Equally those that want a touch of luxury can always seek out the conveniently placed Relais & Chateaux property called La Chapelle St Martin which is only 5 km from Limoges airport. Limoges airport offers cheap flights to the UK and Holland with many Air France connections via Lyon and Paris to the rest of Europe.

Most people think of the hanging gardens of Babylon if you ask them where are there hanging gardens in the world but there are actually some other magical gardens located in France that give a similar feeling.

Following the paths lit by hundreds of candles one summer’s evening I found myself totally mesmerised by the views and beauty of the hanging gardens of Marqueyssac. During the summer months of July and August, the gardens in the grounds of the chateau bearing its name, are transformed into a veritable twinkly paradise. 56 acres of gardens have been lovingly restored and the immaculately cut hedges wind and bend their way along the cliff-side, revealing dramatic views over the Dordogne river. The chateau itself dates back to the 18^th century but it’s the gardens that come into their own during the summer months when visitors are invited to come and enjoy the grounds from twilight to midnight. Strolling along the walkways that reveal fountains, mini waterfalls and original wells provides a fun way to spend an evening if you can drag your eyes away from the view over the valley to the other chateaux of Castelnaud and Beynac.

As the sun starts to set, hot air balloons can often be seen to be drifting across the emerald green fields below and with breathtaking precision, their pilots dip the baskets for a couple of seconds on the surface of the river before blasting the burner to raise the balloon over the hedgerow. The view point of the gardens is called the Belvedere of the Dordogne and is located 130 metres above the river. The panoramic view gives photographers a multitude of choices but it is perhaps the laid back atmosphere with the groups of musicians strategically located in the park like gardens that cause even the most weary walker to sit and relax. A quartet of saxophonists ham it up with Dixieland tunes whilst further along the walk way a blues band lets rip with the long haired harmonica player looking incongruously out of place in this quintessential French scene.

Kids rush back and forth across the lawns, playing hide and seek amongst the hedges or just enjoying the custom built playground which guarantees weary parents a break. Marqueyssac has been clever in marketing itself to all ages at all times of the year though its in the tourist filled summer months that the specialised children’s activities make it a great family destination. Rock climbing entices the daring during the mornings whilst those with a creative bent might enjoy watching the wood turner who works magic with pieces of wood right in front of your eyes. If you happen to be there over Easter a special Easter egg hunt is laid on for the children.

At only €7-20 per adult, half price for children from 10 – 17 yrs and a mind boggling free entry for those under 10, the place is outstanding value for money especially for the cash strapped tourist. The candlelit musical evenings that happen every Thursday, weather permitting, during July and August command a slightly higher entrance fee of €10 per adult but its still a bargain. It’s open year round but with shorter hours during the winter months. The hanging gardens of Marqueyssac are located only 9km from the popular tourist spot of Sarlat in the Dordogne in South West France making them easy to get to and there is loads of parking once there for which you don’t have to pay! Information can be found on their website www.marqueyssac.com.

The Brits are known for their love of gardens and living in France, it is always a wonder to me that apart from a few famous gardens in the grounds of majestic chateaux, the French take little interest in the plot of green outside their front door. In fact the average French person would rather grow veggies than flowers. Suffice to say then that when the French have a flower festival and market, it is more likely to be frequented by the English. They will be seen loading up wheelbarrows, baskets and every pocket of their Barbours or waterproofs whilst seen struggling back to their car, often across a rain soaked muddy field and still have a glorious smile upon their face. It's a uniquely English quirk. Little wonder then that the French describe us as the mad English.

Every year in what is officially listed as one of France’s prettiest towns, the streets of St Jean de Cole turn into a riot of colour with flowers and shrubs of every shape and description. Normally a quiet country village located between Thiviers and Nontron in the north western Dordogne, it positively blossoms into life during the second weekend in May each year. Come rain or shine the festival happens, and it is as much about preparing your garden for summer as seeing how many plants you can cram into the boot and back seat of your car. As the saying goes ‘Mad dogs

and English men go out in the noon day sun’ and the number of dogs attending the event certainly seems to almost warrant a dog show of its own.

St Jean de Cole boasts its own large chateau dating back to the 12^th century in parts called le Chateau de la Marthonie (one of the 1001 that are dotted around the Dordogne region) and within its walls a massive flower exhibition takes place, with keen local inhabitants vying for the top three prizes. St Jean de Cole sits on the banks of the Cole River from whence it takes its name and more than one person has made the comparison of crossing over the bridge into a Brigadoon type atmosphere. The main square is where all the action takes place for the flower festival when up to a 100 stall holders do their best to make you part with your heard earned euro! Houses dotted around the square are known for their roofs and have the dubious award of being some of the finest roofs in France. Their design is described as half timbered and colombage. Given that many date back to medieval times it is hoped that they have been kept in good repair for those who live within. Some have been turned into quaint cafes and a couple of reasonable restaurants.

The medieval church doesn’t miss out on the fun either with flower displays gracing its main nave and side chapels. Its all good flowery fun and something that seems to work well in a region which traditionally has a long chilly winter and then burst into life around mid April depending on how kind the weather has been that year. This year summer has arrived early with the result that the massive hanging baskets of geraniums, verbena and petunias that were on display, were so heavily weighed down with flowers that one had to be a contortionist to get them into the car and home in one piece without half the flowers snapping off en route.

It’s a yearly outing that has become a tradition for those further afield in France due to its atmosphere and high quality of plants, For me I have been left wondering whether next year I should take a trailer to cope with the fruit trees and large rose bushes that I was keen to bring home to place in my small cottage garden. But there again this is La Belle France and perhaps I should adhere to the native’s attitude of growing potatoes and carrots instead of sweet peas and roses.

Ferry transfers between England and Europe have been around for years but thanks to modern engineering standards and Australian know how, hi speed ferries are becoming more and more the norm particularly between the UK and France. Where once it would have involved an overnight journey or at least an 8 hour day crossing on a very slow ferry, passengers can now experience a pleasurable 3 hour journey between Portsmouth and Cherbourg or the latest hi speed route between Dover and Boulogne in only an hour.

Australia are the proud leaders in the design and manufacture of the high speed ferry which is a catamaran design and whilst the smaller ones are probably better known as the passenger only ferries that plough back and forth between Perth and Rottnest Island in Australia they are also found further afield between Cape Town and Robben Island. The cross channel ones are however far bigger since they accommodate cars as well and have become one of the most popular forms of cross channel transport over the years. Foot passengers, bike passengers, cars of all shapes and sizes as well as massive lorries all make their way onto these ferries. The operation is slick both on the French and English side of the channel and ample facilities for disabled are also available. Once on board seating is either in spacious airline type seats or at round tables with tub chairs (firmly fixed to the floor!). A couple of large cafeterias with surprisingly reasonably priced breakfasts, sandwiches and snack offerings are available as are a bar and basic duty free shop. One section of the boat shows a film on a large screen whilst other areas are quieter and better for reading or as we found many of our fellow passengers were doing – sleeping!

Ferry crossings are great provided the weather plays ball or you have a strong stomach. The channel is notorious for is unpredictable seas and its wise to swallow a couple of travel sickness pills if you want to avoid feeling under the weather during the journey. A word of caution though to those who are driving – many anti travel sickness pills provide cautions about driving since they can make you feel drowsy – so make sure the nominated driver is not one who needs to take pills!

Public and school holiday weekends are the busiest and typically July through September carry the highest loads of passengers. This inevitably means queuing at the ferry terminals and perhaps surprisingly terminals rarely have much in the way of facilities for passengers that may have the forethought to arrive early.

Prior to any journey it’s wise to check the status of any impending strikes- the French are notorious for calling a last minute strike and they seem to love doing this in peak season. It has become a standard joke in the airline industry that the French air traffic controllers always go on strike during August, the busiest holiday month of the year. On that note – if you are hiring a car and planning on driving between France and the UK – its wise to remember that additional insurance will be necessary as is additional travel time to be built in for the busy highway traffic at this time. Website are available in France and the UK in order to check the speed (or lack of it) on motorways and auto routes and allowing ample time for your journey is essential to ensure you meet the required arrival time at a ferry terminal prior to boarding a ferry.

Prices vary enormously for ferry travel and a premium is payable for the hi speed crossings. Similarly if you book late you will pay more much like with airline travel the earlier you book, the lower the price.

A ferry ride can be a lot of fun and also a more relaxing way to travel than coping with airports full of stressed passenger. It often takes a shorter time than going by air and for a family or even a couple, is often a far more economical way to travel.

The Hotel de la Cite situated within the bounds of the original medieval city of Carcassonne in south east France offers an insight into life in times gone by. The building itself forms part of the original city which dates back to the 12^th century when the cathedral and chateau were built and even prior to that when it was originally a roman settlement. Nestling high on a hill overlooking the Aude River it offers a vantage point over the surrounding countryside that would have ensured nobody could venture in there unnoticed – a fact that doubtless saved it from many invasions in historic times.

Today the hotel is managed by the luxury Orient Express group and offers an unparalleled level of service and cuisine. Its furnishings whilst far from opulent, are quietly in line with the keeping of its surroundings. Prints of the buildings designs adorn the walls whilst the leaded windows boast stained glass heraldic shields in some of the bedrooms and suites. The baronial dining room with its views out over the city ramparts and overlooking the old and new bridges to the new city, offer the visitor a chance to savour fine cuisine in historic surroundings. Huge iron lamp fittings which defy weight limitations hang from the ceiling whilst the library with its book clad walls and comfortable seating offers a superb sitting area away from the crowds that too often frequent the cobbled streets outside. Carcassonne is known for its tourists and high numbers of them in high season, but the hotel de la Cite with its inviting pool during the summer months and private gardens ensure the residents are blissfully cocooned away from the presence of those outside. It’s a veritable escape into the past. The choice of restaurants under the watchful eye of chef Jerome Ryan ensure gourmets won’t be disappointed especially when wondrous offerings are presented during their foodie delights on Christmas and New Years Eve when those in the know succumb to the many courses accompanied by carefully matched wines designed to celebrate these special events.

Its certainly a place unlike any other and in part of France that few venture to on a limited time frame however it is place that should be seen for its historical connotations and for those who appreciate fine cuisine, it’s a winner.

You either love pigs or hate them and I have to confess that I fall into the former category. I adore piglets and have threatened on more than one occasion to buy a couple to take home. Perhaps thoughts of the film ‘Babe’ remember forever etched in my memory but in truth they are delicious animals both in terms of character and dare I say in terms of taste…

An enterprising couple from the UK, Marlene and Gary Thompson decided a few years ago to embark on breeding rare breed pigs here in Campagne near La Bugue. But then anything that this couple do is not done in halves. With a background of running a successful pub in Norfolk and keeping ten Shire horses which became part of a major tourist attraction, there is little that would prove daunting to this pair.

Having moved to the Dordogne complete with several of their beloved Shire horses, they quickly settled into the French way of life but decided they needed to do a little something with their time. Now some 100 pigs later, some of whom are doted on by name, they have a thriving business that has created quite a stir not just with expats who crave a good piece of bacon, but amongst the French who are intrigued by les Anglais who have started a trend in making ‘Toad in the Hole’ a featured dish on a local restaurant menu. So intrigued have some of the French become by this dish that they have started taking photographs and now buying sausages direct from Marlene and Gary, in order to make their own!

Large ones, small ones, black ones, pink ones, and even black spotted pigs are all to be found on the more than 30 acres that

comprise what is becoming a very popular place in Campagne. Provided you don’t mind mud, can cope with pigs that in Marlene’s words ‘like to dig to Australia’ and can look on the funnier side of piggy quirks (imagine chasing an escaped pig back home) it’s a great life. Having recently obtained their license to sell pork products to the public, you can now enjoy streaky or back bacon, gammon steaks, Lincolnshire or Cumberland sausages and just about any cut of pork your heart desires. These are happy pigs producing free range pork that is totally wholesome and not packed full or chemicals or other highly questionable stuff.

There are doubtless those of you that wonder how one can look at a pig and know that later it may be gracing your favourite breakfast dish or decorating the Sunday roast but as Marlene says ‘ I don’t name the ones that I know will be going that route, I only name the breeding ones that will be with us we hope for many years to come’. With names like Lucy, Pinky, Splidge and Splodge and the more unusual ‘Eyebrows’ these pigs know her voice and come when called. It’s an awesome sight to see these heavyweight full grown

creatures come ambling across the field and tuck their heads down waiting for a scratch behind the ears. The piglets of course have an even easier task of melting your heart. With pigs having an average of two litters a year sometimes more, there is never a shortage of piglets around the farm and perhaps bizarrely the gestation period is an exact 3 months, 3 weeks and 3 days.

Pigs actually can make good pets although some breeds tend to be friendlier than others. For anyone thinking of taking a boar home to become a pet, a word of caution, when irritated, like all animals, they can become aggressive. Gary still has the scar from six stitches caused by a boar more intent on exploring the countryside outside his field instead of inside. Pigs have their quirks too. Did you know that pigs are partial to porridge and rice pudding?

For those that want to buy this truly farm fresh pork, it’s available direct from their farm at: Le Sechoir, Campagne 24260. Tel: 0553353166

RECIPE FOR TOAD IN THE HOLE

Everyone has their own favourite recipe for this but it’s easy to make some unusual variations.

Ingredients:

6 sausages
40g butter
300ml milk
100g self raising flour
3 eggs

Method:

Preheat oven to 220C. Grill the sausages until slightly brown. Prepare a roasting pan or a flan dish by brushing with a little oil. Warm the butter and milk together in pan. When the milk starts to boil, add in the flour and keep beating to make sure the mixture doesn’t go lumpy. Gradually add the eggs in one at a time but make sure the mixture isn’t too hot or the eggs will start cooking. Pour a little of this mixture into your prepared dish and whirl around the sides of the dish as well. Scatter the sausages around the dish and then add the rest of the mixture. Place in oven and cook for around 30 minutes. Check regularly to see if batter is rising and turning brown.

Variations: Add chilli flakes into the batter for a ‘hotter’ taste or some grated cheese for flavour. Serve with onion confit.

We all know that food and France are joined at the hip but truffles have become something of a seriously ‘in’ food. Big ones, small ones or even medium sized ones are considered delicacies all over the world and the prices they command are little short of mind boggling. In case you should think I have lost my marbles, I am not talking about the chocolate ones but rather the truffles that grow underground and grace foods from pasta to sauces and are considered one of the finest delicacies in the world. Here in the Perigord, the truffle bearing the same name is usually considered the most widely revered in France both for its taste and versatility.

France has been considered the home of the truffle for many years however now they are being cultivated all over the world including Australia. It is starting to make them more accessible to chefs and their customers world-wide although the prices are still startling. Described as an underground mushroom it is widely considered to be one of the most sought after ingredients in the world.

Here in France, there are markets, museums and even towns dedicated to the honourable truffle. The town of Sorges is one such place. Here you can go on a dedicated truffle walk during the seasonal months of July and August where you will discover all there is to know about this wondrous item amongst the truffle groves. The land around Sorges is considered some of the best in the world for cultivating truffles and it is perhaps interesting to note that it all happened here by mistake more than 40 years ago when a large number of oak trees were planted by a land owner and from that truffles started to appear around their base. Oak and hazelnut trees are considered to be most likely to encourage the growth of truffles but since it may take up to 10 years until truffles to first appear, it's easy to understand why these specialised goodies are so expensive.

Only in France where the truffle is so highly prized would they have a regular newsletter dedicated to it and as to be expected there are books as well but then France probably leads the way in cook books. Fatal for the waistline but bliss for the dedicated foodie. One of my favourite expressions here is ‘trufficulture’.. it clearly says it all.

Sorges, aside from being an attractive little town, has a fine restaurant called Auberge de la Truffe. One could hardly expect it to be named anything else, located where it is. Complete menus are tailored around the truffle. For €100 you can indulge yourself with truffle featured in every course. Think mille feuille with foie gras and a truffle sauce just for a starter and you may get an idea of how rich and indulgent the French can become with their wonderful food. Regional produce menus vary from €32 – 57 with a €70 one which includes wines as recommended by their sommelier. For those that overnight at the Auberge which is rated as a 3 star establishment in the Logis de France guide, and enough awards for its restaurant to satisfy even the most discerning gourmand, you can indulge in a breakfast with a serious difference. Try scrambled egg with foie gras and truffles for €36. Definitely something to spoil yourself with, even if it does make a horrendous dent in the holiday budget. |However the wise will plan to pop in for midday lunch where you can have the plat du jour and dessert for only €12. If that isn’t seriously good value at a top restaurant I don’t know what is. The Auberge offers extremely well appointed rooms that start from only €52 and rise in price according to whether you decide to stay on a half board base or not. One sample of their food will certainly leave you in little doubt. You can always attempt to work off any over indulgence by walking around the truffle museum nearby which at €4 entry provides a fascinating insight into the world of the truffle. Perhaps best of all for those that are serious about their truffles and French cuisine, a one week stay at the Auberge between November and April which includes cookery courses every morning for the week, dinner each night and a comfortable bed will set you back a reasonable €900 or €1000 to include wine. And for those more pushed on time, a w/e is on offer which includes a tour of the truffle museum and some cookery courses and some gastronomic dinners for €350. Truffle markets take place in Brantome and Sarlat from December to February in the Dordogne giving you even more of an excuse to visit this great part of the world during the northern winter months.

There is little doubt that life without truffles in France just wouldn’t be as much fun.

From the land of truffles and good food I wish you a Bientot till the next time….

The name Bordeaux is synonymous with wine and food, and there are few people in the world who haven’t at some stage in their life either sampled or seen a bottle of one of the famous Bordeaux wines. Located on the South-West coast of France, Bordeaux has grown in popularity from being just a wine destination to a cultural one as well. It’s easy to reach by air and train from major entry points in France, such as Paris, Nice and Lyon, but also via one of the smaller airlines that offer regular air services to its extremely efficient airport. The airport and the city were upgraded considerably when France hosted the Rugby World Cup and this has resulted in Bordeaux being on the map as a tourist hotspot. Getting around the city is easy, with its extremely efficient public transport system, including modern trams and buses that interlink with the main train station located within a 20 minute walk from the centre of the city. Getting around is easy and ensures you don’t need to go to the bother of hiring a car. A word of warning though – the tram system does not extend to the airport, a perhaps rather surprising scenario given how recently it was installed. However, regular buses plough back and forth from the airport to the heart of the city.

A daily ticket on the bus and tram system will allow you to travel all day for €4.10. For this you can jump on and off to your hearts content to explore this fascinating city. Alternatively you can purchase lower price tickets according to the number of journeys you expect to make that day. The left bank area is home to the major points of interest for tourists. The truly magnificent architecture of the Place de la Bourse is without doubt the highlight. The beautiful architecture of the buildings and the central fountain are a sheer delight and a photographer’s dream. Every consideration has been made by the Bordeaux tourism authorities to ensure that this major feature of the city has remained unspoilt, even down to the tram stop where there are no signs – just a couple of stone benches for passengers to wait on. In true French fashion you wouldn’t know this was a tram stop since there is no sign anywhere to indicate this. However with only three tram routes, the trams are extremely user friendly and the automated ticket machines at most of the major stops provide clearly marked maps as does the tourist office at the main station and at the large tourist office in the centre of the city. For those who are hesitant to discover the city on their own, there are many guided tours offered from the city’s tourist office which may include day tours to the well known St Emilion vineyards, a boat tour along the river, city guided tours on a bus or the popular gourmet tours held twice a week between May and October.

There is so much to see and do in Bordeaux that it really warrants at least a 3-day stay in order to get to know the city and the immediate surrounding areas. As a major university town it pumps with life, although it’s wise to remember that it is a late starting place and the city only really starts to wake up after about 10 in the morning when the shops and cafes start to open.

Maps of the city are available free of charge from the tourist office and are clearly marked with the public transport routes ensuring you won’t get lost. As with all cities there are the seedier areas where you need to exercise caution as a visitor and conversely there is the sophisticated expensive area of the inner city where designer shops are two a penny alongside more interesting smaller ones. Les Grandes Hommes shopping centre is an architectural wonder with its circular construction of metal and glass. It is home to well known shops like Villeroy and Boch and some of the finest chocolatiers in France. The main shopping streets have been pedestrianised making it a pleasure for the visitor to potter around at leisure without fear of being run, a common hazard in the more popular destination of Paris.

Bordeaux definitely warrants a stop on any visitor’s itinerary but it’s wise to read up before hand on what you actually wish to see and do, whether it be to attend the opera, visit one of their fine museums, shop till you drop or eat and sample wines to your heart’s content.

Sugar and spice and all things nice could be a phrase referring to the numerous foodie delights to be found in Bordeaux. It’s a tasty city in all senses of the word. Not only does the Tourist office offer the opportunity to do a gourmet tour through the city twice a week during season, but the true foodie can easily enjoy a self guided tour through the city centre and its immediate suburbs just by putting one foot in front of the other.

Starting in the city centre perhaps one should start at L’intendant in the Alles du Tourny which is widely considered to be the finest wine shop in Bordeaux. In truth it is as well known for its magnificent staircase as well as for its wonderful wines. Getting them home again may present a challenge for the traveller, although of course shipping them from one of the world’s most famous ports presents no problems for those with a limitless budget and little concern of any taxes that may apply once it reaches its destination.

Ambling along the rue Montesquieu find yourself some great cheese at arguably one of the best cheese shops in France at Jean d’Alos. Here the displays of lovingly made cheeses cause the tummy to rumble and the frequent deliveries give the photographer some great opportunities to snap some of the larger wheels that arrive at the door.

Almost next door is the Grands Hommes shopping centre which is home to one of the many branches of Baillardran where you can see the chocolatier in the shop window as he prepares some of the hundreds of chocolate cases that will be sold that day. Multi coloured macaroons in a gift box definitely make a different kind of present.

Those with a weakness for tarts both sweet and savoury will positively melt at the Tarte Julie shop in the Monoprix centre near to the Notre Dame cathedral in the rue des Trois Conils. For just under €10 you can get to have one of each with a coffee. It’s awesome stuff and doesn’t break the bank and makes you truly appreciate the art of French baking.

For those with a sweeter tooth who enjoy the patisserie masterpieces that have made France so famous worldwide, a walk or short tram ride from the city centre to the charming area of Chartrons is a must. There can be little better way to appease the appetite after strolling past the many antique shops, than salivating at the windows of the renowned Antoine patisserie. Delicately made offerings that feast the eye and feed the stomach are wondrous. For those on a budget and counting the pennies you can make your own baguette sandwiches by popping into the Paul bakery, also located in Cours Portal the main road through Chartons. Whatever you choose, it’s almost guaranteed that you will battle to make it as far as the one block to quayside before devouring at least a portion of your purchase. The smell that pervades from Boulangerie Paul is simply the most powerful invitation to enter its unostentatious entrance way.

Food markets are part of the French way of life and here you can pick and choose from several at Victor Huge, Grands Hommes or Chartrons. The most well known at Capucins which has several fish stalls requiring a very early visit. I went around 10:30 only to find it mostly closed and very disappointing. Fish and particularly oysters are a French way of life and Bordeaux with its many fine dining restaurants demands a good supply. It’s fun to see the traders competing and some of the outdoor food markets are a special treat, especially the organic market on Thursday at Place St Pierre and Quinconces by the quai. Sunday mornings is also a goodie for open air markets but its wise to remember that all the shops are closed. Restaurants are open of course for the traditional Sunday lunch.

Once a year, France celebrates its jour de patrimonie by throwing open the doors of many of its public buildings and museums to the public at little or no charge. More than 12 million visitors visit some of the 15000 sites that are open during the w/e concerned. The result is an exodus of people from their homes to look inside the homes of others. This is because some of the more unusual private homes which may be in protected or historical buildings are also open for those that care to see behind their facades.

I recently joined a group of some 150 people who had gathered in the town of Excideuil to enjoy a two hour long visit free of charge, courtesy of the town’s local tour guide. I was the sole English speaking person in the group perhaps because it is only residents who are likely to know about this open door policy on the jour de patrimonie, or those who read their local French newspapers. Regardless I set off in earnest to learn a little more about the secrets of the town.

Its hard not to be impressed when one realises that Excideuil dates way back to the 11^th and 12^th century and has gone through the 100 years war, succumbed to fire and yet valiantly still stood strong to survive until today. Houses have been restored to their former glory and stone staircases seem to be a thing

in vogue during earlier times. Whilst they can’t have been as easy to build as wooden ones they are certainly longer lasting and now many centuries later 150 of us were traipsing up and down them making the obligatory ooh and aah noises at the antique strewn rooms. The massive fireplaces have to be seen to be believed. Most designed to take at least 1 metre long logs. Getting practical, one has to wonder about the poor people who would climb up endless stone stairs carrying these vast quantities of logs in order to ensure the Bourgeois members of society were kept warm.

Excideuil itself is situated in the heart of the Dordogne with the nearest main train station at Perigueux about 30 minutes drive away, although there is a bus service available from Perigueux and Excideuil. It’s an ideal place for an international visitor to include on an itinerary, and although Excideuil does offer accommodation, it is possible to base oneself in Perigueux and make it one of those day trips. Excideuil also boasts a chateau with an imposing view from its hillside location. The Place Bugeaud, adjacent to which the market is held, boasts a pretty fountain and attractive church. The tourist office at Excideuil is remarkably helpful and they will on request even organise personalised guided tours of the city for groups as small as five people. For those who want to potter around, a self guided tour is easy, thanks to the well marked route with signs explaining the history of various

buildings. These are of course in French but the tourist office can provide documentation in English to help you. The other bonus is that there is loads of free parking around the tourist office, except on Market Day which is Thursday, when you need to arrive early in order to guarantee a spot. If you happen to be there in July make a note of the medieval market which takes place on the weekend closest to Bastille Day which is the 14^th July. Being on the River Lue, during summer months it’s easy to stop off and have a picnic here, or sample one of the many cafes and bars that spill out onto the local squares.

Here the magic of the countryside comes into it’s own and the best times of year to visit are probably September and early October when the crowds have vanished and the roads are clearer but the weather is generally still warm and the evenings stay light until about eight o’clock.

It’s always great to stumble upon a place that seems almost magical and a trip exploring some of the southern area of the Dordogne led me to just such a find.

Off the main tourist route, Beaumont du Perigord hides a wealth of history, a couple of interesting shops and a market square that in summer months just begs one to stop a enjoy a glass of citron presse or a coffee or if you’re not the one driving a glass or wine or two! The village dates back to 1275 and one could be forgiven for thinking one has stepped back in time as you wander down the cobbled streets and under a huge stone archway which is the original gate to the village. Known as the Porte de Luzier, if you close your eyes for a few seconds you could be forgiven for thinking you have been transported back in time. Beaumont itself was laid out originally in the shape of an H making it easy to wander around with little chance of getting lost. Geraniums tumble out of windows boxes and vie with the stonework and the ancient shutters for photo taking. An antique shop or two (known as Brocante here in France) are a veritable treasure trove for those who know their stuff and more than one tourist as found themselves shipping home an antique chest or massive armoire or cupboard as we would call it today. Those interested in churches will enjoy the 13^th century one that is in the centre of the village and if Chateaux are your thing, don’t miss out on the Chateau de Bannes with its fantastic view over the surrounding Couze valley. It’s only open during summer months as sadly many of these Dordogne villages just close up over the wetter winter ones.

Australians will be pleased to learn that one of their own has made her home there. After 18 years Prudence is truly

considered a local and she has opened a perfumerie and an oldie world shop that is home to antique christening robes, superb lace lingerie as well as her wonderful perfumes, soaps and oils. A great place for finding gifts to take home with things like square soaps showing a coat of arms and Beaumont du Perigord stamped into it. Look carefully and you may even find an embroidered koala sneaking in on a linen lavender holder! The shop which is simply called Prudence is located in a quaint back street that runs parallel to the main road – easy to find and sometimes helped by the well known 20 year old cat called Noisette, who sits quietly curled up on the chair outside. Prudence studied the art of perfume making in Paris and in Grasse – the home of perfume in France and bravely decided to take the plunge and start marketing them herself. She hasn’t looked back since and has gained a considerable reputation that has people seeking her out from all over south west France.

When leaving Beaumont du Perigord, a short journey will bring you to Tremolat – a great place to base yourself if you can afford the rates at the superb Relais & Chateaux property of Le Vieux Logis. If you can’t afford to stay there (and remember the golf clubs if you do) then just enjoy a meal in their restaurant which boasts a Michelin star. In summer months the chef, Vincent Arnould, offers cookery demonstrations that are followed by lunch for €120 per person with an additional charge of €50 for lunch. Always popular you need to book well in advance as the chef only accepts 10 people on each course.

The Dordogne hides many secrets but for historical fundis it’s certainly hard to beat.

All villages in France come out to play during the summer months and perhaps one of the better known festivals is that of St Jean. Living in the commune (yes, that’s how they refer to their villages) of the same name ‘La Chapelle St Jean’, ours does the traditional thing with a bonfire, too much kir, wine, attempts to dance and the village folk rattling their money boxes to collect the necessary for the meal. Being that it happens on the 24^th June of each year, it either tips it down with rain and a thunderstorm to end all thunderstorms or as it did my first year, was suitably hot and humid causing party dwellers to seek refuge outside when the inner sanctum of the local village hall became too hot to bear.

Nobody appreciates a party more then me, but being an onlooker at one of these events reveals the true nature of the cultural divide between ‘les anglais’ and ‘les francais’. For my money I would rather be on the side of ‘les francais’ who regardless of weather, time of day, state of health or state of the nation will party on regardless. Long tables, free seating and extended family groups make for a leisurely event and once one gets past the notion that 2 – 3 hours obligatory drinking prior to the meal is perhaps not altogether for you, one can become swallowed up by the atmosphere and merrily be carried along with the vibe. Monsieur le Mayor will always trot around looking reasonably important until some uncouth ‘anglais’ in an attempt to be French waltzes up and plants kisses firmly on both of his cheeks. Well, if the French do it why not the English….Some communes have less than 100 inhabitants, 50% of those whom may be English with 50% of them appearing only during the summer party months and expecting to be treated as full time residents whilst not participating in any of the hardwork that goes on behind the scenes for such events. Is it only the English who can be so unbelievably dense that they just don’t comprehend that village life is about participation at all levels and that doesn’t just mean the quaffing of the excellent local hooch?

The local women all get together a couple of weeks before, beavering away industriously to make sure that everything will be alright on the night; aside from the weather that has its own way of making its presence felt. In La Chapelle St Jean it is a tradition to make a small bouquet of flowers, herbs and wheat. Boxes overflowing with these are dutifully brought to the village hall where amidst village gossip, at least a hundred of these bouquets will be assembled. For the newcomer it can all be a little bewildering. Everything is exact, seven sheaves of wheat, then you add the herbs, flowers (dried or fresh) and then tie them together. Under the eagle eye of the organiser, stems will be snipped, raffia bows tied and everything laid out neatly upon a table waiting the next lot of volunteers in a day’s time who will add in the scroll of paper explaining about the tradition of the herbs. The sheaves of wheat are considered a symbol of prosperity and good luck. Locals and other attendees at the pre bonfire dinner can then buy these mini bouquets for a donation of €2. The idea being that you go home and put it in pride of place near your front door. Around France, some enterprising individuals become even more creative with their bouquets from previous years by soaking them in Olive Oil and believing that using this oil will help relieve various ailments. Depending on what the herbs are and how your bod reacts this may produce a miraculous cure or a horrendous rash!

At major events a booze tent is erected outside the village hall where from €1 for a plastic tumbler of Kir to €5 for a bottle of excellent local wine, you can imbibe to your hearts content although the young and wise or should it be the ‘Young and the Restless’ may tackle the beer or attempt to behave and stick to cold drink… In France, the older you are the more likely you are to drink – it’s a good old fashioned habit and in the wine growing regions it’s not a habit that anyone is going to break in a hurry. Kitchens in village halls invariably have a deep fryer for the essential pommes frites for the children (and adults who sneak in to sample a few). In addition large fridges which aside from having the inevitable bottle of wine have larger stocks held nearby for the essential replenishment. These will fight for space with huge plates of loving prepared starters which may comprise anything from soup at the winter events to sliced tomatoes, shredded carrot and diced beetroot at the summer ones. The latter’s colour combination certainly guarantees it’s noticed the minute it reaches the table along with the baskets of local bread. Although by this stage so much wine has vanished down the throats of guests that it’s surprising anyone is capable of finding their cutlery never mind using it.

The first year I attended the pre bonfire dinner – huge trucks bearing the sign ‘paella’ pulled up outside the salle de fetes. Was I

confused? Did I miss something? Were we not in France profonde? So what were the Spanish doing invading our territory. It appears that the Spanish theme has a way of sneaking in to our ‘petit’ commune. In previous years I was told that an accordion player would play ‘Viva Espana’ – not just once but consistently as it appeared to be the only tune she knew. This year there was no evidence of the accordion player only a half hearted excuse for a comedian who bravely tried to make himself heard above the inevitable dine of ‘well lubricated’ diners. However the paella man had come to town, three massive gas burners were assembled and the even larger paella dishes were ceremoniously laid on top – There was little to beat this in terms of action or effect. The virulent saffron coloured rice, the pink shelled prawns, bright green peas and all the usual trimmings ensured a feast for the eyes and also proved a feast for the stomach. It was a winner – Vast plates of paella were placed in front of each individual….. none of this queuing up to get your grub. Almost certainly a wise move, given the distinctly wobbly state of many of the guests by this advanced stage of the evening… Far safer to stay seated and endeavour to tackle the paella with fork whilst chasing peas around the plate, rescuing rice grains from the table and ripping shells off the prawns… It’s all part of the fun…

After dinner, the local children proudly led a bedraggled and sometimes struggling procession of people to the bonfire that has been lovingly assembled by the local men several weeks before. In truth the building of the bonfire is just an excuse for them to get together and start swigging back some of the supremely innocuous kir from 9 in the morning By midday when the wives and partners arrive to rescue their distinctly the worse for wear other halves, the bonfire is finished and all have an excuse for yet another all afternoon lunch in the salle de fetes.

The fire is ceremoniously lit and provided the weather plays ball (which is rare) everyone stands around for at least a further hour while the fire lights up the night sky. Nobody has thought of having fireworks or some such to make it a more festive event since these feu d’artifices as they are known are preserved generally for Bastille Day in mid July when France’s national holiday cause’s the entire country to go up with a bang in every city, village and hamlet in celebration. Those with the stamina return to the salle de fetes for dancing or what can be described as an attempt at the same in their frequently inebriated state.

Village life is never dull and at times like these it brings a special glow to the faces of all who enjoy the fete, the food, the fire and yet another excuse for a great party. Vive la France!

Living in the depths of the French countryside definitely has its pleasanter unexpected moments. Who would have expected that an ‘Artisan Confiturier’ or as it is known in English, a gourmand jam maker, would be living in my midst? A profession not to be sneered when up to 50 varieties of jams, jellies and sauces are produced – all to satisfy the palate of the ever increasing number of greedy gourmands that live hereabout and that includes yours truly.

Of course having a 40 hectare family farm on which to build your jam making premises certainly helps. As a profoundly proud artisan gourmand (and you have to pass a myriad of legalise in order to qualify as one of these) little is automated and it is a pride of the profession to do as much as possible by hand. Roping in your wife, mother and any other willing pair of hands is all part of the fun. When I questioned whether he had automatic bottle filler, I was met with a resounding negative response; a traditional shrug of the Gallic shoulders and the explanation that everything is done by hand from the jam making, the bottle filling to the labelling, etc. All in pristinely clean premises which meet the health and safety specs that are required. What could be an intensely competitive business has become a way of life for Beatrice & Fabian De Lingua De Saint Blanquat whose name alone conjures up links to royalty. In reality he can trace his roots back to 1510 but now lives in the same area to where his grandfather moved in the east of the Dordogne during the early 1900s.

He and his wife Beatrice currently have the facility to make 400 litres of jam at a time and each recipe has a standard

minimum run of 100 bottles with more if the order demands. They currently supply a large chain of local supermarkets with bottles of various sizes – ranging from the miniscule to the obscenely large.. Whichever size or shaped bottle you choose you are in for a seriously sticky treat. Aside from the popular jams made with the local figs, strawberries and apricots there are the more unusual such as Gelée de Café. This has a delicious bitter sweet taste to it that is particularly designed to go with the locally famous foie gras. For those who thought carrots were just for vegetables and carrot cake – think again. Carrot jam is the new thing and makes a great accompaniment to meat and of course foie gras. For the sweet tooth, I defy anyone to pass up the Confiture de Lait or Chocolat. Both of which are obscenely divine over crèpes or ice cream. However for my money, sneaking along to the fridge and stealing the odd teaspoon direct from the pot takes a lot of beating. More exotic jams such as banana and kiwi are also available.

All of the produce is bio, meaning it has passed stringent testing to ensure produce is naturally produced and manufactured. In a world which is becoming increasingly aware of the importance of the natural ingredient, it’s good to know that artisans such as Fabian exist to keep the gourmet taste buds alive.

His products aside from being available in the Intermarche supermarket may also be purchased direct from their premises in St Rabier, where his mother takes on the role of selling her son’s produce with great pride. Prices start from 74c for the mini pot of local fruit jams and rise according to content and size of jars. Gift baskets are becoming increasingly popular especially at Christmas time…. But for me, a pot of Confiture du lait (which is like a caramel sauce) will bring a smile to my face anytime!

Visitors to the Dordogne region of France are too often in a hurry to rush to the better known sites such as Sarlat and Dom and yet with a little more time, they would discover a place which is known to the locals as the Venice of Perigord.

Located in the northern region of the Dordogne in what is more commonally known as the Green Perigord, it offers a haven of tranquillity with its meandering river and spectacular abbey founded in the 9^th century. There can be little more peaceful way to pass the time than settling back on the boat that wends its way hourly along the River Dronne whilst delighting at the riverside properties, many of which date back hundreds of years. Brantôme itself is built on a island in the middle of the River and its enchanting cobbled streets with the tall buildings that line them, has remained remarkably unspoilt.

The park on the banks of the river has the local jazz band practising their stuff during sunny week-end days and sitting on a park bench listening to the sax player whilst enjoying the surrounds of the abbey is without doubt a great way to spend an hour or two; particularly as it is free…. Even the parking adjacent to the park at present is free. Locals also tend to frequent Brantôme, always a good sign, and the various restaurants that have their locations on the river are always popular, particularly at lunch time.

Brantôme offers a variety of places to stay and much like the restaurants can be tailored according to your budget. For luxury and spoiling there is little to beat Le Moulin de l’Abbaye, a Relais & Chateaux property located directly on the banks of the river. The water wheel in the garden, the terrace at the water’s edge and sublime cuisine (it boasts a Michelin star) takes some beating but then its prices are at the very top end of the market.

Its set three course lunch menu will set you back a heady €58 without wine whilst dinner menus start from around €75. Over-nighting here is definitely for the special occasion. At the other end of the scale and offering superb value for money is the newly opened Madison d’Hôtes ‘Au Nid

des Thés’. Located just a hop, skip and a jump from the river, it has enormous high ceiling bedrooms and state of the art bathrooms. And where else but in France would they think of naming rooms after sweets?! The idea of a night in a room entitled Chambre Chocolat has to be enticing! The terrace for breakfast has a view of the Abbey and two of the four bedrooms have balconies overlooking the cobbled main street. Depending on season you can expect to pay between €55 and €80. Rooms offer a variety of configurations from twin beds, to double + single to kingsize. They also offer 4 nights for the price of 3 provided you stay consecutive nights between Sunday and Friday. They speak excellent English.

There is plenty to see and do in the area but its worth checking the opening hours of the Abbey on your arrival since they vary considerably according to season. Market day is Friday with a farmers market on Tuesdays in July and August and a truffle market on Fridays from December to February. For those who want to be a tad more energetic than reclining in a boat while someone else does all the work, you can rent a canoe and paddle along the river at your leisure. For the cultural boffin, a museum at the abbey has paintings by Fernand Desmoulin whilst the Musee Reve et Miniatures has as the name indicates a display of historic interiors for Lilliputians. Concerts are held regularly outside and in the abbey during the summer months, generally on Fridays. For those hiring a car, highly recommended in this region, a short distance from Brantôme is the Chateau de Richemont as well as the Chateau de Puyguilhem which is purported to be the finest in the Perigord.

These words were immortalised by the Beatles in one of their most famous songs but the sight before my eyes had to be seen to be believed when I visited the annual Strawberry festival in France.

Held in one of the most historic cities in France, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, the annual festival turns the whole city red with strawberries. Fortunately they do not hurl them at each other as the Spanish do during their famous tomato festival. The French remain remarkably civilised and have stall upon stall selling nothing but strawberries. Along the way a few jars of strawberry jam may sneak in as does some fun home made pottery with strawberry motifs. For strawberry gluttons it is a dream, for those who can’t decide which stall is selling plumper, juicy strawberries it’s a nightmare. Unlike in many countries where you would expect the enterprising to dish it up with cream and perhaps a bit of sugar, it doesn’t happen here. Strawberries are simply sold by the punnet (from around €2) or by the crate (around €18). People are seen struggling back to their cars weighed down by a few extra kilos of strawbugs. Those that can’t cope with it all are seen lining up for the Belgian waffles that are served with (no, not strawberries) but Nutella or for the German visitors, the hot dog stand does a roaring trade in baguettes served with any one of the various type of French sausages available.

Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, as its name implies, nestles along the banks of the Dordogne River, a few hours east of Bordeaux and south of Tulle. Visitors are invariably seen at the river’s edge munching on their freshly purchased strawbugs. Never one to miss an opportunity the French will link strawberries to anything that may be relevant – This year it was to rugby and so a statue

was created in the main square paying homage to the rugby but with the dates spelt out in strawberries – a quirky but clever scenario. Perhaps best of all though is the making of the giant strawberry tart – purportedly the biggest in the world and one year it most definitely made it into the Guinness Book of Records. Just to see the size of the tart, a cool 8 metres in diameter, makes one’s eyes water, the tummy rumble and the lips licking in anticipation of a piece. Little doubt that there is sufficient to feed not only the residents and visitors to Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne but quite possibly half the French population as well. Its all obscenely good fun, outrageously decadent and so very, very French! The only thing I found strangely lacking was the champagne – given that champagne and strawberries are known to compliment each other so well, but given that most visitors need to drive somewhere afterwards it may just be a serious blessing in disguise.

The annual Strawberry Fair is held in May come rain or shine and being that it happens in one of France’s most historical towns makes it just that more special.

Cheese and France go hand in hand just as baguettes and wine. It’s therefore easy to comprehend therefore why the French enjoy a festival of cheeses to celebrate one of their country’s leading exports. As arguably the largest consumers of cheese in the world (the Germans aren’t far behind) – they need little excuse to celebrate cheese in all its forms.

One of the better known festivals takes place each year on Whitsunday (Pentecost) close to Rocamadour in the little village of L’Hospitalet. Located in the department of Lot in Southern France, its nearest point of access is Toulouse or Bordeaux if travelling by plane. Well organised, with free parking and entrance, it attracts locals and tourists alike so its wise to pitch up early. Billed as being the largest Cheese Festival in the Southern Hemisphere it is perhaps surprising that it doesn’t comprise more stalls but this in itself makes it more intimate and welcoming. The cheese makers and farmers are on hand to give you all you ever wanted to know about making cheese whether it be from goats, sheep or cows milk. Add to this the fact that in France they positively encourage you to sample their products instead of rationing you which other larger more commercial festivals are likely to do, makes for a winning combination. There is no expectation for you to buy but most people weaken once they have tasted that ‘extra special’ piece of cheese. Bakers of clafoutis (a fruit filled flan) create concoctions containing cheese which are sold alongside the vital essential of any French person’s life – bread! Not to be outdone the sausage maker will also be there with every conceivable type of dried sausage you can think of – truffle, cepe, nut, herb, olive, etc and of course the noix de jambon – the local cured ham which graces many a French table for lunch or dinner.

Wandering sheep stand no chance with sheep herding demonstrations but its distinctly different when the sheep some with bells around their neck, are allowed to run through the crowds and are then herded up by the efficient canines. Children happily play with piglets and goats, blissfully unaware that the former are more likely to land up on a plate sooner rather than later… but I digress, the main purpose of the festival is to celebrate the hard, the soft, the mouldy, the ancient and the crumbly – in other words the great cheese in all its forms. Rocamadour itself is best known as the name given to the small round young goat’s cheese found in the nearby Perigord and Quercy regions. It is eaten in salad, on toast or just on it’s own with red wine. After all the French have never needed much excuse to have a glass or two.

No fete or festival would be complete without the French having an excuse for lunch so long tables are placed out under the trees for visitors to enjoy the €10 offering which will generally comprise pork, haricot beans and perhaps some salad and bread and of course some cheese. The down side could be the long queue but a saunter over to one of the wine stands before embarking on the long wait always helps to ease the pain! Local wineries vie with each other to see how many tastings you would like – None of this pay for a tiny sip scenario but a decent dollop and more offered without hesitation – no wonder they have little trouble selling cases of the stuff! It’s all good news…

Rocamadour itself is worth a visit as an historic site and to see the buildings that defy belief as they seem to hang on a cliff face but that’s for another day when I’m not cheesed out……

A colourful market with an abundance of goodies to attract the locals and tourists alike is what puts St Genies squarely on the map for any French visitor.

Whether you want a handful of spice, a freshly baked pasty stuffed full of foie gras for only €3 or fresh tomatoes for your salad – you will find it all at one of France’s most intimate yet vibrant Sunday morning markets. Unlike its better known neighbouring markets, St Genies is for there for those who have made the effort to discover it. Difficult to track down on the web, it is reliant on the word of mouth by b and b and cookery school establishments in the area. It was in this way that I discovered this medieval gem. Set against a backdrop of photogenic village houses and the central church, the village square which is located half way up a hill, positively bursts into life each Sunday morning when the traders come to town. Unlike in many villages, here you will find the butcher, the baker and all the gift shops open on Sunday morning. They clearly don’t wish to miss an opportunity. St Genies nestles between Montignac and Sarlat on one of the prettiest drives you will find through the Dordogne. Following the path of the River Vezere for much of the way, the little villages en route to St Genies are merely a precursor for the best which is yet to come. St Genies secret is perhaps its size. To quote one of the stall holders, ‘it’s small and personal here. Everyone has time to chat to each other without the frenetic activity of some of the larger markets’. If my visit was anything to go by one can certainly vouch for that. Everyone had a story to share. Cheese stalls in France are legendary but here they positively assailed the nostrils with such force that it’s impossible to resist trying a few slices and naturally taking some home for later. Perigod the region in which St Genies is found, is perhaps lesser known for its strawberries which appear at markets year round – glass or two of dessert wine to accompany them after your cheese is virtually compulsory in France.

A cup of espresso sipped in one of the cafes is almost as compulsory as lunch is after an hour wandering the market. With regional three course menus starting from €14, it’s difficult not to make an excuse and sit back and enjoy the fare.

The wisest man at the market is probably the stall holder selling straw baskets in every conceivable shape and size. He knows that visitors are likely to land up with more than they can carry and they will be more than tempted to part with a few Euros for one of his straw offerings. Gifts for those back home are not forgotten either and honey stalls do well as does the mustard man selling his stuff in brightly coloured pots which whilst they may weigh your luggage down are certain to brighten up the life of the recipient.

To find out more about St Genies – put a search on Sunday Morning Market France St Genies on the internet. Too small to boast its own tourist office, this little village runs off the back of its neighbours but stands tall above them in terms of character, beauty and sheer personality.