OTTOLENGHI
– The Cookbook
Quite simply the finest cookbook I have held in my hands for many years.
Basically unknown outside the UK, two enterprising young men, Yotam
Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi opened up a restaurant and seriously upmarket
café in London’s presitigious Notting Hill. The result is nothing short of a
masterpiece in terms of culinary skills as superbly reflected in the pages
of their cookbook named after one of the chef’s as is the restaurant.
Pulling on their backgrounds and using cultural influences from Persia to
California their recipes are as unique as they are. Using plenty of pulses,
fruit and vegetables the recipes are well laid out and explained and
generally adjacent to page with high quality photographs depicting the dish.
The book has been put together with total dedication and care shown not only
by the quality of paper on which it is printed but the effort that has gone
into explaining where to source certain ingredients which may be a little
different to the norm or not readily obtainable on your doorstep. Websites
are given for ordering certain spices for example.
The early pages of the book are dedicated to explaining their philosophy
about food whilst the endless pages of mouth watering recipes and pictures
make it a foodie lovers delight. I purchased this book not knowing anything
about them and based it purely on reviews of others. I have been totally
blown away by its magnificence. Simply the best cook book in many years. I
cannot recommend it highly enough for vegetarians, healthy eaters and
those like me who just enjoy a great assortment of quality recipes to
enhance the kitchen.
Published by Ebury Press – the recommended selling price is GBP25 however it
is available via Amazon for GBP16.
Au Revoir to All That ....
Any book that Marco Pierre White describes as ‘One of the greatest books
I’ve read’, must surely entice any foodie to turn its pages. Enter ‘Au
Revoir to All that’ by Michael Steinberger.
Described as ‘The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine’ it reveals his viewpoint
on why the French have suffered in recent years at the hands of their chefs
and perhaps their politicians. His research into why arguably the most
famous cuisine in the world has now become almost passé is a serious page
turner once you get past the first couple of chapters which are a trifle
slow. Once one understands the thinking behind great chefs such as Ducasse,
Bocuse and Chapel the whole French food scenario suddenly becomes a lot
clearer – for better and worse in some cases.
It reveals the secrets as to why one of the finest cooks in Paris boasting
French culinary skills today is Japanese and that France also boasts a three
star Michelin chef who hails originally from Pakistan. Its fascinating stuff
and the number of top restaurants that are mentioned within the pages of
Michael’s book will have foodies the world over salivating and wanting to
jump on the next plane to Paris. This despite the message that French
cuisine is not what it was and how chefs today have been forced to change
their mindset in order to cope with an increasingly competitive and
financially strapped market.
Marco Pierre White is as controversial as he is successful and doubtless
this book of Michael Steinberger’s falls into the same category. It’s this
which makes the book both a fascinating yet at times eye opening read. With
chefs often more fond of being in front of the camera than in their
restaurant’s kitchen it should come as a warning to chefs world wide just
what could happen if you don’t keep your eye on the pot and it starts to
boil over. Published by Bloomsbury, in hardback it retails for GBP18.99 or
via Amazon at considerably less.
Sun at Midnight -
Rosie Thomas
Few people visit
Antarctica and fewer still write about their experiences. An author, who
bases a novel in such a unique place, is one who has insight and skill
combined. The novel ‘Sun at Midnight’ by Rosie Thomas, is written in such a
way that it captures the mind of the reader from the outset and at the end
leaves one with a nagging wish to perhaps explore this vast area should the
opportunity arise.
The novel is based around
a young woman’s wish to make true on a promise to her mother, to follow in
her footsteps by making a name for herself in Antarctica. The circumstances
surrounding her visit throw up some surprising twists and challenges, all of
which are described with considerable sensitivity. Perhaps most of all
though, it is the wondrous descriptions of Antarctica that enthral the
reader the most. In so doing one can truly visualise this natural wonderland
in all its guises and colours through the calm and the storms. The bravery
of the people who live there for months at a time in conditions that can at
times be distinctly inhospitable whilst others can prove to be a life
changing experience. The love story which unfolds within the pages of this
book makes it an easy but fascinating read.
Published by Harper
Collins it is available worldwide in paperback and combines the world of
destination travel with a startling good read. Currently available from
Amazon UK for £.49
Ripailles by
Stephane Reynaud
Every once
in a while a cook book comes along that zooms straight away to the top of
the best seller list. I am not talking about the Jamie Oliver or Nigella
Lawson numbers which seem to be two a penny these days but rather one that
offers an insight into French cuisine unlike any other. Destined to become a
classic that sits on the shelves of a dedicated cook, it provides a guide to
traditional French cuisine through everyone of its 480 pages. The sections
are clearly broken up into the meat, fish, shell fish, fruit and vegetable
areas but perhaps most fun is the way they have diagrams and little extras
that are designed to raise a smile. For example on one of the pages there is
a ‘red wine ring ‘ clearly meant to appear as if some forgetful person
whilst supping on wine when turning the pages had inadvertently rested
their glass on the same. The index inside the front and back covers are
delightfully different and sections range from the size of eggs, Lyonnaise
vocabulary, well known songs to profiles on well known chefs and places in
addition to your blissfully easy to use index. The wonderful photographs
will have the experienced as well as those new to the kitchen positively
salivating at the thought of what they can produce. Lest one should forget
this is a French cook book, one is reminded through the recipes which
include those for foie gras, tongue in Madeira sauce, wild boar with juniper
berries and many others.
For those
who may panic that the book is only available in French, rest easy. You can
purchase in it in English too. Published by Murdoch Books in hardback, its
recommended selling price is GBP25 however it is available for considerably
less through sites such as Amazon. It’s a winner. Bon Appetit!
The Best of
Vanilla
(Le Meilleur de La Vanille)
Living in France, it
would be a shame not to get one’s nose in some of the great French cook
books that are around. Enter one in a series entitled ‘The best of …….’
These books have been
compiled of recipes from some of the finest chefs in France who have each
contributed some of their favourite recipes incorporating a particular
ingredient. In this instance it is vanilla. The book is called ‘Le Meilleur
de la Vanille’ and is compiled by Michele Villemur. With its truly unique
flavour, vanilla adds a wondrous touch to anything from Roland Durand’s
‘Vichyssoise aux Topinambours’ to Vincent Lucas ’Brochettes de noix de Saint
Jacques'. Too many home cooks think Vanilla only goes with desserts but in
reality it compliments many savoury dishes too as is clearly shown by chef’s
contributions to this book.
Accompanied by glorious
full page colour pics, the book entices the aspirant cook from beginning to
end. Certainly a knowledge of French would help in order to master the recipes
for those who do not have linguistic skills. Published by Ramsay it sells
for €30 and makes a great gift as well as a must have for foodies!
TALK TO THE SNAIL by Stephen Clarke
Stephen Clarke has a way with words and particularly when
referring, if somewhat irreverently, to the French and his adopted life
style. Known best for his books ‘A Year in the Merde’ and it’s sequels, this
book ‘Talk to the Snail’ is infinitely better appreciated if you live or
have lived in France. Many describe the French as being a law unto
themselves and certainly when you read this book you can see why. From the
hysterical descriptions of the average post office employee to attempting to
place an order in a café, it will bring tears of laughter to your eyes. In
truth those that ‘survive’ these daily challenges in France gradually come
to accept them as the norm.
The book is a must read for those who are contemplating living in
La Belle France or who think they know the French, for in reality unless one
is born French one is unlikely to ever really ‘know’ them. All cultures have
their idiosyncrasies and the French are no different.
Published by Black Swan it sells for between €10 to €12 dependent
on place of purchase.
This page last updated on
23/09/2009
Book Review
