Destination Germany

Leisurely Lakes

Southern Germany like its neighbours of Switzerland and Austria offers an abundance of lakes for those that seek some respite from city life. Whether a tourist from afar or a resident in a neighbouring country like myself, I never cease to take delight in experiencing some time out on the lakes that are just a short distance from the centre of Munich.

With a rail system that is rated as one of the best in the world and the lack of need for a car, it’s an option one can add into any itinerary at short notice. A return day ticket to the lakes can cost as little as €10 and there is an option to include a trip on the boat as well if you wish. For those over 65 a further enticement is a 25% reduction off the normal price on the lake boats on Mondays.  With a bit of careful planning you can have a leisurely day out without it costing a fortune.

You can if you wish do several lakes in a day particularly if you plan your journey accordingly. The main trains known as the S-Bahn that originate from the central Hautbahnhof (or main station to you and me) out of Munich offer an easy way to hop on and off the train since the ticket is non restrictive provided you follow the same route.  So it was that I decided to take the S6, one of the eight S lines from Munich, to Starnberg. StarnbergerSee or lake as we would refer to it, is a popular destination for the day traveller since it takes only 45 minutes to reach on the comfortable and clean train. The energetic can take their bikes with them or even a dog or both and families in high season benefit from the family tickets that allow up to three children to travel with two adults at discounted prices.

The boats that travel around the lake are designed to co-ordinate their timetables in line with trains that arrive and depart every 20mins from the three stations along the lake and Starnberg station  is located a mere 50 metres walk from the water’s edge and the pier from where the boat departs. It makes life simple and easy and totally stress free which I found a major pleasure since travelling particularly in high season can be a nightmare. I was delighted to find that in mid July it proved not to be a problem and arrived in ample time for the 1030am departure on the ultra modern boat that now graces Lake Starnberg. Whilst there are smaller ferries, for the visitor the large boat which gently makes it way around the lake is a pleasure. It offers superb facilities for the disabled, allowing for wheelchairs and those utilising crutches or sticks direct access to the boat with no fear of steps.  Facilities on board are numerous with two bars, a restaurant offering a wide selection of salads, and hot food and excellent proper toilet facilities unlike some of the distinctly dodgy ones I have had to experience on ferries in other parts of the world. The difference being this is not a ferry, it’s a proper passenger leisure cruiser designed to please the traveller.  The upper deck which has a covered awning is great for those who seek a higher view point. The mid deck which is reached by a sweeping marble stair case from the lower deck, offers a large indoor area with a wealth of comfortable chairs and tables and even heating for the cooler months. Around the mid deck is an external terrace once again with ample chairs, benches and tables to enjoy basking in the sunshine whilst lapping up the view around you.  At the aft of the boat is a huge outdoor terrace area that offers those in the know the best place to literally lounge on the ten cane sun beds that are provided.  In order to ensure your place on those of course you need to be one of the first on board but at present there is no surplus charge for this.  The lower deck also is almost a mirror of the mid deck offering internal and external seating. Even with a couple of tour groups and the occasional school group, the boat never felt crowded unlike on some of the older steamers that plough their way through the lakes in adjoining countries.

A choice of routes depending on your time available makes life easy. The best if you can afford it time wise  is the 3 ½hr round the lake cruise. At €16 it offers reasonable value. For those with less time, the 1 ½ hr trip around the north or the south of the lake is a great alternative for €8 although obviously you don’t get to see as much.  There are several stopping off points around the lake where you can take a bike ride or if you prefer sample a leisurely lunch.  Those with a yearn to stay over can do worse than base themselves at the Seehotel Leoni with its rooms on the lake’s edge.

Lake Starnberg which originates from a glacier some 20,000 years ago is 21km long and 5km wide making it the second largest lake in Bavaria. It has an historic ring to it also as it has a secret ‘Roseninsel’ or Island of Roses which is accessible by small private ferry and was the purported secret meeting place of King Ludwig the II and Elizabeth who was later to become the Empress of Austria. Wagner too was drawn to this lake and it is here that he found inspiration for some of his operas.        

A little time on the water rejuvenates the soul and offers a great way to see some of the most picturesque Bavarian countryside and elite real estate in Germany.

For more information check out www.bayerische-seenschifffahrt.de

GERMANY MAKES IT MARK

Germany boasts it’s fair share of top chefs too, and in Munich  new one-star awards have been made to the Dallmayr restaurant with chef Diethard Urbansky (and we aren’t joking about his name!)  and to Terrine  with chef Jakob Stuttgen. Tantric restaurant retains its two stars along with its exorbitant prices. Value for money still goes to the one star Italian restaurant ‘Aquarello’ located in the heart of Munich at the Konigshof Hotel and offering an outstanding value for money three course business menu at lunchtime for a reasonably €29.

Little can beat Dieter Muller’s reputation as one of the world’s greatest chefs. His restaurant in north Germany in Koln is located in the Luxus-Schloss Hotel Lerbach in Bergisch Gladbach. Boasting three Michelin stars, it is consistently booked out. Dieter does his magic with food that melts in the mouth and as a guest chef at the recent St Moritz Gourmet Food Festival, he is held in high esteem by his fellow chefs as well as guests who are fortunate enough to sample the cuisine of this world class chef.

Munich boasts some great restaurants too and not all serve German fare.

If you fancy going French, check out Le Sud in the trendy suburb of Schwabing. Here the bistro type feel offers good fish dishes, set menus starting from €33 for three courses and a reasonably priced wine list. Its exceptionally popular so booking is essential especially at weekends. 

Le Sud, Bismarckstrasse 21, 80803 Munich, Germany

www.le-sud.de and tel: +49 89 330 887 38

Finding a a good restaurant that opens its doors on a Sunday in Munich can be a challenge. However the Italian restaurant Vinaiolo will gladly oblige. Located in Haidhausen within walking distance of all major tram and bus routes, it offers an exceptional value for money Sunday lunch at €39 for 6 courses. Beautifully presented and with creative cuisine, it’s a regular for many of the locals, Italian and German alike. Known for its wines (whose prices are not for the faint hearted) it’s rated as one of the top restaurants in the city.

Vinaiolo, Steinstraße 42 · 81667 Munich, Germany · Tel: +4989 - 489 50 356  

www.vinaiolo.de

What to do in Bavaria, Germany?

Naturally Nürnberg

Hailed as the City with the most famous Christmas market in the world, Nürnberg is designed to impress. A city that has risen from the ashes, it is now undisputedly one the premier tourist destinations in Germany if not the world. 

It is home to the Christmas market (Christkindlesmarkt) during the four advent weeks and to a famous Toy Fair in January and February. This fair, although only open to the trade, attracts an enormous number of people to the city.  Nürnberg has achieved a place in the hearts of all visitors and most vow to return. In summer months the city bustles with groups who travel to see the unique walled city with its cobbled streets and a castle perches high above affording views over the rooftops. Dating back to medieval times, the castle boasts spectacular gardens and a great way to while a few hours if you wish to explore the seriously large interior!  Churches and some buildings were rebuilt after WWII, but blend in so well with the originals that it is hard to tell the difference. Few places achieve a successful blending of the old with the new, but Nürnberg pulls it off with considerable success. The old walled City reveals timbered houses and the central Hauptmarkt where the famous Christmas market is held. For those with the stomach, a tour around the 14^th Century dungeons and torture chamber and a view of the Hangman’s Tower is a must.  The culturally minded will appreciate the Old Town Hall which was built in the 1600s. A walk around the ‘Altstadt’ (old City) can be completed in a couple of hours although it is hilly so be warned that, during the winter months with snow, it can be slippery.

Nürnberg has the River Pegnitz running through its centre and along its banks restaurants and bars have sprung up. All are tasteful and even the inevitable addition of many of the American fast food places have been done with care and are not the usual eyesores with glaring neon advertising their products. In summer months the parks around the Wohrder See are popular and science and activity museums for children make it a popular destination for families. Perhaps the nicest thing about Nürnberg is its relaxed unhurried pace and yet as the second largest city in Bayern after Munich, it has been planned with care. The result is an efficient public transport system with the main station at its centre, an excellent underground and regional train system, in addition to trams. The airport is served by some of the leading European airlines including Lufthansa, Swiss and British Airways, allowing easy movement around Europe. All this for a city with only half a million inhabitants is perhaps surprising.  It is possible to do a day trip from Munich to Nürnberg thanks to the ICE train connections which take only an hour; alternatively the comfortable and regular regional trains take a little longer but are considerably cheaper especially if you choose to travel at weekends.

Regular English speaking tours are run during the summer season and when the Christmas market operates from the main tourist offices, and the price includes admission to the castle. The average duration is around 2 ½ hours and it’s a great way to see as much as possible if you are on a tight time schedule. The Nürnberg card is also great value for money. For €18 you get two days unlimited travel on public transport and entry to all the main sights. This can be bought from hotels, hostels and the tourist offices.

For those who wish to overnight – there is no shortage of places to stay in Nürnberg in all budget categories – ranging from the luxurious and expensive to the hostels for those counting the pennies. It’s wise to remember thought that it is important to book in advance especially at Christmas and during the Toy Fair.

Info: www. tourismus.nuernberg.de

Or once in Nürnberg you can easily locate their offices at:

the main station (Hauptbanhof): +49 911/2-33-61-32
or in the Rathaus, Hauptmarkt 18: +49 911/2-33-61-35

Fun in Friesing

The environs of Munich are easily accessible thanks to the great public transport system in Germany. Clean, reliable and punctual, the visitor can get around with little hassle once one has figured out what can be a somewhat complex ticketing purchase system.  With lots of options ranging from day trip tickets to three day city specials it’s sometimes better to ask a representative at one of the main offices at the Hauptbahnhof (main station) in Munich to ensure that you get the best deal. Generally it is not expensive and frequently cheaper to travel in a group of up to five people at a w/e or after 09:00 in the morning. For as little as €27 up to five people can travel for the one ticket price and reach suburbs some considerable distance outside of Munich and get the opportunity to explore the picturesque Bavarian villages.

Most towns or villages have the train station either directly in the centre or with linking bus services that are generally included in the price of your ticket. It makes for easy stress free travel and none of the hassle associated with hiring a car or the worry of who will drive home if some have sampled Germany’s most famous export – their beer!

Friesing, one the oldest towns in Bavaria, dates back to the 8^th century and are located on the outskirts of Munich. It is accessible by bike, for the super fit at a 30km ride along the banks of the Isar River for the early part of the journey, alternatively for many it is easier to take the S1 train from the centre of Munich and enjoy the 40 minute journey in a more relaxed state.   

For those with time on their hands and transiting through Munich airport – another option is to spend a day in Friesing which is only a short distance from the airport and is accessible either by a couple of stops on the S-Bahn (train) or by bus. 

As the town comprises cobbled streets and some steep climbs to assure the best views, its best to have on comfortable shoes – remember in the winter with snow or ice that thick soles would be a bonus too!

Lovers of churches and organs will be blown away by the magnificent church (cathedral) of Mariendom (St Mary’s Cathedral) that sits in pride of place overlooking the city. With an organ that would do justice on any film set for its looks alone, the church is worthy of a visit even for the non religiously minded. Regular organ recitals are given here though booking is essential during the popular summer months. A museum across the courtyard from the church is worth a peek too as it purportedly contains a considerable amount of Christian art. The cathedral library is worth a visit too

Friesing is also known for its beer when a monastery back in 1040 was granted the right to make beer. To this day the brewery operates although the monastery itself closed back in the 1800s.  The brewery likes to lay claim to being the oldest brewery in the world, whether this is correct is open to some debate!

The current Pope studied, was ordained and became Archbishop, so for this reason alone, Friesing and the Mariendom holds an attraction for many.

From a leisure point of view, a stroll through the city streets will provide an easy way to spend a few hours, with plentiful cafes spilling out on to the pavements during the summer months. The market which is held on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, provides a plethora of choices for the savvy fresh produce shopper which aside from the traditional fruit, vegetable and cheese stalls, offers a fishmonger, an olive stall and some tantalising freshly baked breads to go with the locally produced honey and jams.

Little wonder that it’s not just the local residents that shop there but Müncheners in the know!

Tourists will leave feeling they have had an inside view of life in a typical Bavarian town but one which offers a unique history as well.

More information about the Bayern train ticket on www.bayern-fahrplan.de

The Magic of Music in Mittenwald

Germany offers summer and winter destinations and its common to find visitors who have visited in one season that are keen to return at the opposite time of year.

Mittenwald, located near the Austrian border with Germany, is one such town. In winter it offers Christmas markets, ski slopes and mugs of gluhwein in guesthouses with frosty windows. In summer however it comes into its own with a mass of forest, lakes (Luttensee, Lautersee and Ferchensee) and alpine walking all within a short distance of the village. The bonus being that one does not need a car to enjoy this destination to the full. The train journey which is less than 2 hours from Munich becomes more scenic, the closer you get to Mittenwald. Upon reaching the station you can walk directly into the town alternatively you can hop on a bus that will take you directly to the one of nearby lakes.   For those already equipped with walking boots or sturdy shoes – a walk through the town and after a short walk up a steep hill will bring you to the base of the chair lift. Whether you choose to take the lift, which is a leisurely 15 minute ride over the forest and provides a superb view towards the Alps or if you choose to hike through the forest and the parkland below, it’s a relaxing and scenic route.  Once off the chairlift there is a choice of walks both in terms of length, time and difficulty. Whilst some may be quite steep in parts and older people may require assistance, for the most the walks are more of a long stroll. Paths are all well marked and most of the lakes offer a restaurant, biergarten or refreshment kiosk.  It is wise to remember that at all times of the year; the weather in the Alps can change at short notice. It’s therefore wise to ensure you have an anorak or waterproof covering in your backpack or whatever you choose to carry with you. A hat, sunscreen, sensible sturdy shoes or boots and a mobile phone in case of accidents is also wise. There are bike trails as well for those who wish to hire a bike to enjoy the scenery instead of walking.

In addition to the chairlift there is a cable car to another of the peaks ensuring that photographers can get their fill of pics (and heights) – A walkway by a spectacular gorge has been created and is open during the summer months though it’s worth checking first and the friendly and informative info centre in the town.

Mittenwald offers a big assortment of accommodation ranging from B & B in private houses to guesthouses which are often restaurants with a few rooms above the main reception rooms, as well as dedicated hotels with large terraces, indoor swimming pools and family rooms. Peak season of July and August requires advance booking but during the week and Sunday evenings you can generally find a room without prior notice during the rest of the year except during main holidays like Christmas and Easter.

Aside from walking in the summer and skiing in the winter, Mittenwald is best known as being the home of violin making. It is widely considered to be one of the most important centres in the world for this highly specialised craft. Since the first workshop was established in Mittenwald in the late 1600s, it has seen many famous instrument makers based here and many families have had the craft passed down through the generations. The Geigenbau Museum which is open daily except Mondays reveals an insight into this fascinating craft and offers presentations in a variety of languages. The museum underwent a major renovation in 2006 and the result is a cultural revelation for the musically minded.

Traditional Bavarian food restaurants are plentiful and there are couple of good Italian ones too. Children are welcome in all of them as the centre has become a popular destination for family groups in all seasons.

www.mittenwald.de – for tourist information
www.stern-mittenwald.de  - Double rooms incl. b/fast from €70 for two