Hartnoll Hotel in Devon

Every once in a while something pops up on the radar that puts an extra smile on one’s face especially if it’s unexpected.  During a recent quick visit to the West country in England I found myself delighting in the discovery of a country house hotel which is on the border of a traditional old Devon town called Tiverton

The Hartnoll Hotel nestles in what appears to be rich Devonshire countryside yet is only a hop, skip and a jump away from main road access that leads in a few miles to the M5 – one of the main motorway links to the rest of the country whether it to the west to Cornwall or to the east where it links up with M4 to London.

Still at the stage where it’s almost a secret, the hotel rates are still relatively reasonable despite the considerable renovation and upgrade that has happened to it since being taken over by a woman who was born in Tiverton. She never expected to find herself back in this part of the world but with a background in the hotel industry and a son who has a flair for renovations, when the opportunity presented itself to buy the property Claire Carter couldn’t resist.  Picture a perfectly mown flat green lawn with garden tables and chairs scattered under the shady trees just waiting for you to reach out and take a sip of Pimms or perhaps indulge in afternoon tea.  The day I visited there were even a couple of Labradors lounging at their owner’s feet whilst they enjoyed the balmy summer weather.  A stream runs along the bottom of the garden with a couple of life size bronze herons apparently ploughing through the water on their way to the mini waterfall. A tiny wooden summerhouse beckons children to come and play whilst adults enjoy gazing through the trees at the dairy herds beyond. It’s all frightfully English and rather indulgent and it works. Luxury well equipped rooms make it a comfy place to stay and there is even a cottage in the grounds which is equipped for those who wish to avoid stairs or for those who want to bring their dogs and know they won’t disturb fellow guests. The Hartnoll Hotel s rapidly making a name for itself as a venue for weddings yet with only 17 rooms it remains totally personal but for those who wish private banqueting facilities can be arranged for up to 200 people.

The modern bar and conservatory style dining room lead out onto a large terrace where meals are provided by a highly trained Kenyan chef who used to work in Taunton but was tempted away by the lure of the countryside and more of a challenge. His food is superb and prices are surprisingly reasonable for England and won’t break the bank. Try the lunchtime salads available from around GBP8 or a massive baked potato topped with bacon and brie for a reasonable GBP5-95. Sinful deserts beckon if you have room and a chocolate meringue glace could prove to be your undoing with its chocolate mousse, chocolate ice cream, white chocolate buttons, chocolate crisp and wonderful toffee sauce. It’s a choccy lovers dream! Rates at the hotel are currently GBP75 per night incl breakfast for a double room. Excellent value but when renovations are finished rates will increase although there is very little left to be done now so there is no sign whatsoever anywhere of any inconvenience or disturbance.  Staff are very friendly which is a vital part of their ethos and their smiles are almost infectious but totally genuine. It’s clear they enjoy working as part of a family style team.

Almost opposite the hotel is the famous National Trust property of Knightshayes which is open to the public during summer months whilst in Tiverton walks or barges along the Western Canal are a popular pastime in good weather. The Hartnoll hotel was once the Dower House to Knightshayes, hence its proximity.

 For those who don’t have the time or volition to drive – Exeter airport is 20 minutes away or Tiverton Parkway Railway station is only a few miles and transfers can be arranged to all of these.   For overseas visitors it’s a great place to base yourself whilst exploring the Devonshire countryside or for a special get together with family and friends. 

For more information you can check out their website on www.thehartnollhotel.com

Beautiful Bosham

It’s little known, it is even less talked about and yet it is scenically one of the prettiest coastal resorts in the UK.

Bosham, which is located on the south coast of the UK, is to be found just a short distance from Chichester, its distinctly bigger and wealthier city relation.  Known for its second homes, obscene rents in the summer for up market holiday makers and for arty types to hide away in during the winter ones, Bosham has developed into one of the more popular get aways for those in the know.

Reaching Bosham is best done by car since there is no rail route and the bus service is extremely limited. This in itself presents a problem when it comes to parking since the local car park is not exactly large and out of season half of it is dedicated to the yachts that have been taken out of the water for the winter months. It’s wiser therefore to pile as many people into one car as possible to eliminate any possible hiccups.

Its craft centre which houses twelve craft shops and a coffee bar, is home to some of the most creative and artistic members of the community. Known affectionately as Bosham Walk it delights young and old and for those gasping for an ice cream during the hotter days of summer, won’t find themselves going without.  In the centre, you will find everything from hand dyed paper to pottery animals destined for the garden. Each craft shop or stall nestles next to another creating a vibe reminiscent of an indoor market. The effect works, since it positively bustles with people year round.

The little village of Bosham was built directly on the water and dates back to Roman times and there are still parts of this in evidence in the Saxon church which was once a royal chapel said to be connected to Canute, the then King of Denmark, Norway and England.  Potter along the narrow high street and you can peer into the low level windows of the quaint cottages and the occasional shop. It’s one of those places that cries out for a movie to be made there since it is almost too chocolate box, except it isn’t as it has remained relatively unspoilt despite its beauty.  The Old Mill directly on the water is now the local sailing club base but is easy on the eye and definitely a hit with photographers regardless of their talent. Add to this a building called The Raptackle  which used to be home to equipment for the local ships and the scene is set.

Perhaps most unique to Bosham is the fact that at high tide the waterfront road floods and the unsuspecting visitor may be caught out and find their car semi underwater if they are foolish enough to leave it there at low tide. On the other hand, visitors who choose to rent a cottage directly along the Waterfront Road, will doubtless be delighted that they can lean out their bedroom windows to feed the resident ducks and swans at high tide.  

No visit to Bosham would be complete without a visit to the local Holy Trinity Church located on a site which has seen worshippers for more than 1600 years. The immaculately kept churchyard and well attended services show that Christianity is definitely still alive and well in this part of the world. It is widely believed that King Canute’s daughter was buried here although it has never been verified by historians will be interested by the Norman font and also the link to the famous 231 foot long Bayeux Tapestry made in the year 1066 which makes direct reference to the Norman conquest and shows clearly King Harold entering Bosham Church.

West Sussex has managed to remain relatively unspoilt but Bosham perhaps more than many of the sea side villages continues to offer a haven of tranquillity with its views out over the harbour and the air of a village that has been able to capture the magic of a time long ago that many have forgotten.

THE GREAT BRITISH PUB

There is something about the Great British pub which causes people to, enjoy, listen and search for them all over the world. Many countries have tried to replicate them but few succeed in creating that special ambiance that is uniquely British.  Location and décor play a huge part and city pubs and country pubs are as unalike as chalk and cheese.

On a recent trip back to the UK I had the opportunity to get my pub fix in some seaside pubs in West Sussex along the South Coast. Pagham Harbour and Bosham which are situated between Portsmouth and Brighton, are small quiet seaside villages. In summer, Bosham attracts the tourists but in the late spring when the cherry blossom and magnolias are out vying with daffodils and blue bells it makes for a true British scene.  When the sun shines and the opportunity presents itself to eat outdoors on a terrace overlooking the sea, it becomes a sure fire winner.

The quaint village of Sidlesham at Pagham Harbour with the aptly named Crab and Lobster Pub offers some of the best and freshest seafood around. A plate of fish and chips here takes on a whole new meaning and its little surprise that their restaurant has recently been named as one of the best around. Some may term it a gastro pub, but the outdoor terrace brings it back to reality with its casual atmosphere that also welcomes children. British licensing laws have always made it difficult to take children into a pub under the age of 12 and have precluded many a keen parent from going to the pub for lunch. Terraces and gardens fortunately solve this problem but only in fine weather.  The Crab and Lobster also offer limited boutique style accommodation for those wanting to base themselves here whilst exploring this part of the world. One of the best kept secrets of this part of the south coast is the marsh walk from Pagham Harbour towards Selsey. Few people apart from the locals know anything about it and it’s a great way to walk off the lunch excess for those that have been tempted by the pub’s distinctly designer style presented chips with the crisply battered fish.

Further along the coast in Selsey which is known for its shingle beach and child friendly lifeboat station, is a pub which nestles cheek by jowl with the fishermen’s’ huts that sell the freshest catch of the day. Lobster pots show the best there is alongside copious quantities of mussels, crabs, whelks and the like.  The appropriately named, Lifeboat Inn pub attracts day-trippers and residents alike but being off the major international tourist scene, it remains relatively unspoilt.  It’s a haven for fishy foodies. The Lifeboat Inn whilst not being particularly inspiring inside, has its seaside terrace within a stone’s throw of the beach and all the catch of the day are available for those that want a little something to keep the hunger pangs at bay although in the early evening during late spring and summer, a chilled glass of whatever you fancy is often sufficient.

Further along the coast still are the attractive seaside town of Bosham and its here that you will find one of the most atmospheric pubs in the south of England. The Anchor Inn nestling directly on the water enables children to lean over the terrace and feed the swans at high tide whilst parents can sit and relax whilst absorbing the stunning view over the estuary. Traditional pub fare of Steak and Kidney Pudding (GBP9-25) or Scampi (GBP8-50) is hard to beat – but it’s the atmosphere inside of this incredibly old pub with its low wooden beams, uneven stone floors and traditional bars that really make it what it is.  In order to ensure a seat inside here at anytime of year, it’s advisable to get there no later than 12 especially in the popular summer months.

No visit to the UK would be complete without a visit to a true British pub and an amble along the southern coast of the UK could provide just the ticket for those searching for that special experience.

The Anchor Inn, Bosham
The Lifeboat Inn Selsey
The Crab and Lobster, Sidelsham, Pagham Harbour, West Sussex

Battle of the Flowers in Jersey

The largest festival on the Channel Island of Jersey is the Battle of Flowers, which always takes place in August, followed the next night with a moonlight parade. The Battle of Flowers, St Helier, Jersey will take place this year on 13 & 14 August.

Website: www.battleofflowers.com

The Welsh Perry and Cider Festival

Cider is made from apples and perry from pears. Perry, which uses the juice of special perry pears, is much less common than cider. Its all happening from 23–25 May, noon–11pm at Clytha Arms, near Abergavenny, Monmouthshire NP7 9BW

Website: www..clytha-arms.com

Royal Academy Summer Exhibition

This is the largest open contemporary art exhibition in the world, drawing together a wide range of new work by both established and unknown living artists. Each year around 10,000 works are submitted, from which a panel of Academicians select around 1,200 for the exhibition. The theme of this year’s RA Summer Exhibition is Making Space. It runs from 8 June to 16 August and admission charges apply. The Royal Academy is open daily 10am–6pm (to 10pm Fridays).

Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington House, Piccadilly, London W1J 0BD

Grab a Hat, order a Pimms and celebrate rowing at Henley

Famous since 1851, Henley on the banks of the River Thames,  is home to the world’s largest rowing regatta and is quintessentially English. Mobile phones are banned, Ladies are encouraged to wear hats and men often wear jackets, cravats and flannels – All frightfully British. This year’s event takes place from  1- 5 July.

Admission to the Regatta Enclosure on 1–2 July is £12, 3–5 July £15, 4 July £20. Children under 14 are free.

Henley Royal Regatta, 1–5 July
Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire
Website: www.hrr.co.uk

Get musical with the famous Proms

The Promenade Festival started in London in 1895 with the aim of presenting the widest possible range of music, performed to the highest standards, to large audiences. Now known as the BBCProms, the festival takes place this year from 17 July to 12 September with 100 concerts, including 76 main performances in the Royal Albert Hall in London.

A ‘Prom’ is a Promenade Concert, where part of the audience stands in the Arena, the ‘promenade’ area of the hall directly in front of the orchestra. There are also standing places high up, at the top of the Gallery The hall offers more than 1,000 standing places for each Prom. The traditionally low prices start at £5. Seated tickets cost from £7 to £90. Promming (standing) tickets cannot be booked in advance for individual concerts and queues form early for the more popular programmes. The concerts are noted for their informal atmosphere.

BBC Proms, 17 July–12 September
Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, London SW7 2AP
Tel: +44 845 401 5040 (box office)

Website: www.bbc.co.uk/proms/2009

Enjoy a Fruit Festival in Kent

The cherry harvest will be celebrated with a Cherry Festival on 11–12 July. Visitors to the festival will be able to taste the different cherries as well as other local produce from Kent, watch cookery demonstrations and discover new recipes.

The Cherry Festival is one of a series of events celebrating fruit in season. Plum Day will be held on 16 August, a Cider Festival 19–20 September (cider is an alcoholic drink made from apples) and the Apple Festival 17–18 October.

The farm, , is open daily 10am–5pm. Every day except Monday, visitors can take an hour-long guided walk around the fruit collections (£6 adults, £5.50 concessions, £3 children).

Brogdale Farm, Brogdale Road, Faversham, Kent ME13 8XZ
Tel: +44 1795 536250

Website: www.brogdalecollections.co.uk

Move over Oktoberfest, London has its own Beer Festival

The Great British Beer Festival held in London in August is Britain’s biggest beer festival.There will be at least 450 beers available throughout the festival  which you can drink in pint, half-pint and third-pint measures. (A UK pint is 0.57 litre.) Visitors will also be able to play traditional pub gamesm listen to live music, sample traditional pub food. It is held at Earls Court in London from 4 to 8 August, 5–10.30pm (4 Aug), noon–10.30pm (5–7 Aug), 11am–7pm (8 Aug). Admission £8 for CAMRA members, £10 non- CAMRA members.

Great British Beer Festival 2009
Tel: +44 1727 867 201

Website: www.camra.org.uk